more then a thousand islands strung like gemstones across a vast expanse of crystal blue tropical seas are safely protected from the tourist circuit of Bali and the rest of Indonesia.  These islands are extraordinarily beautiful and varied, mostly volcanic and filled with a terrific kaleidoscope of marine, wild and plant life. Like most islands throughout Indonesia, off the beaten path, the Malukus provide an endless amount of attractions for anyone with a true spirit of adventure. Just as versatile as each island is, so is the food which reflects the bounty that the oceans and the island gardens provide. Known as the Spice Islands, Maluku was obsessively sought for many years before they were rediscovered by Portuguese sailors in the 15^th. century. Explorers like Christopher Columbus, Vasco de Gama, Ferdinand Magellan and Sir Francis Drake all dreamed of finding their wealth there. In fact, one of the main incentives for Europe’s age of discovery was the avid search for spices, easily worth their weight in gold then. Spices like nutmeg, mace and cloves were used to camouflage the flavour of spoiled meat in the days long before refrigeration. It was also believed that these exotic spices had huge medicinal value. As far back as the 3^rd century BC, the Chinese knew of cloves, and by the 4^th century AD, fragrant cloves had reached Europe. Yet for hundreds of years, the worlds total clove production come from five little islands in the far east of Indonesia. Ternate and Tidore in the north, Ambon in the centre and the island group of Bandas on the southern edge.  Control over these spice producing islands assured immeasurable fortunes, and countless lives were lost in the quest for them. But the introduction of refrigeration and British success in propagating nutmeg and cloves in Sri Lanka brought an end to the spice wars for ever. Trekking @ Gunung Kiematuba

Gunung Kiematubu 1730m on Tidore

Just west of sprawling , four armed K-shaped Halmahera island two perfectly shaped volcanic cone islands lurk off the western cost. Ternate and Tidore, the famous clove islands. Three century ago, the great kingdoms of Europe fought bitterly  for the control of these tiny islands that measure  just a little more then 10 km across. Today Ternate and Tidore have faded from the world’s attention, but these lush, breezy islands are just as beautiful as they were when first Portuguese sailors landed.

The main reason for our visit to the spice islands was to search for indigenous dishes that will be included in our newest book publication that will feature Indonesia’s most original dishes as well as showcasing the many great mountains and volcanoes of this fascinating country. Obviously there are very few places in the country where you can combine food and hiking on two very tiny islands that have changed the history of our planet so much. It was our aim to arrive on Thursday, climb Gunung Gamalama on Friday, then relocate to the island of Tidore on Saturday and climb Gunung Kiematuba on Sunday morning. Well this was the plan which then was changed rather dramatically a week prior to our departure, when Gunung Gamalama on Ternate started to spew large clouds of ash and the volcano was placed on high alert, making any attempt at climbing impossible. Despite not being able to climb the volcano we tremendously enjoyed the sights, sounds and flavours of these very remote and bustling islands. hiking @ Gunung Kiematuba

Transportation

The islands are easy accessible by many daily direct flights from Jakarta, Manado, Makassar or Ambon. Unlike in the past the flights are now on time, but please be advised to book early as each flight seems to be fully booked. To get around the islands and visit the many sights it is easy to rent a motorbike or even easier is to hire a bike with driver who then becomes your local guide and will bring you to places that are normally not open to public. It is definitely worth spending a little extra time on the island to discover the various sights of both islands. Please keep in mind that tourism on the islands is virtually non existent and as such accommodations are simple to say the best. Travelling between the islands is easy as there are countless fast, slow, big, small, simple boats continuously shuttling between Ternate and Tidore. A journey can cost as little as US$1 on a crowded slow boat that will take a good 30 minutes or US$10 on a privately chartered “speed boat” which will cover the distance in a little over 10 minutes.

Tidore island, slightly larger then Ternate is less than a kilometre from here better known twin’s closest shore. Unlike Ternate, Tidore is dormant. Gunung Kiematubu rears up in a perfect cone from the southern part of the island and smaller mountains rise in uneven steps from the north coast of Kiematuba’s 1730 meters.Trekking @ Gunung Kiematuba

Trekking Gunung Kiematuba

I spent the night prior at the village of Soasiu. It is only a short 20 minute care or bike ride away from the starting point at the hill village of Gurabunga (650 meters).  Here I meet my happy friendly guide who will lead me up to the summit. It was actually rather nice to see how well the village thrives on the relatively high nutmeg and clove world market price.

It was my aim to be on the summit for sunrise and as such we departed at 3.30 am which was actually almost an hour too early. Hikers in good physical condition will make it easily in 2 ½ hours to the summit, and a more comfortable pace will have you on the summit in a little over 3 hours. Trekking at night is obviously rather boring and will not give you much of a chance to actually enjoy the beauty of the surroundings. Especially the first or then the last ½ hour at the end is remarkably beautiful and different to most other volcanoes. This has to be the most fragrant trekking adventure anywhere with nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon trees as far as you can see. Trekking  @ Gunung Kiematuba

The path on its own is straightforward without any major obstacles. The first 30 minutes will lead you through hectares of plantations. Once you enter the forest the path widens and just before the wooden hut that belongs to the caretaker of the forest the path makes a left turn and descends for a few meters before ascending into the forest up the hill side. Just as on any other mountain, the trail which is in very good condition leads relatively steeply towards the tree line that you will reach after a little over an hour of making good pace.

 It was then as we came close to the tree line that we noticed a light mist in the air, which gradually started to release a few droplets of rain. The stars were gone and my fears become reality an hour later when we sat on the summit in thick clouds making it impossible to see a few meters. Just before you get out of the forest the trail crosses a small rocky river bed, and I was told that there normally flows a small trickle of water well into the dry season. Again it was dry during my trip.

Once the tree line is reached you will only have another 150 meters altitude to go which you will conquer in an easy 20 minutes. The vegetation here consists of shrubs, reeds and relatively high and very dense grass like bushes. The path is partially rocky but again offers no difficulty. Within no time you reach the actual summit that is marked by a cement block that is covered by colourful graffiti. Passionately sitting in the clouds we could only imagine how fantastic the views in every direction must be during clear days. Well it was not to happen during my trip but I would not be surprised if one day I will return and attempt another climb. It is definitely worth  considering  spending the night on the summit as there are several well protected camping areas. At least this will give you a chance for a sunset as well as a sun rise. Hiking @ Gunung Kiematuba

Summery Gunung Kiematuba

• Elevation: 1740 meters
• Coordinates  Summit:  0.662255,127.402697
• Location: On the island of Tidore in the Molukus
• Difficult grade 2: Relatively easy. A total of 1100 meters altitude to gain means a good 2 1/2 hours trekking time  for a reasonable fit person. It should take you around two hours to get back from the summit
• Physical challenge 2:  Straight forward. The first 1/3 or 30 – 45 minutes are most comfortably and beautiful scenic where you pass hectares of clove and nutmeg plantations. Then a little more then the second third is just like any other volcano within high mountain forest. Lots of trees of course have lots of exposed roots, which will greatly assist you on the way up and especially on the way down.
• Hiking time: 2 1/2 hours up and a little quicker on the way down.
• Water source:  Limited available 20 minutes before the summit, in a small river bed just before you excite the forest.  1½ liters should be sufficient.
• Guide: Not essential. Recommended in the lower section to guide you through the plantations. Once you enter the forest the trek is straight forward.
• Contact: It is rather difficult to get reliable information on Tidore. We highly recommend to contact Pak Munamir which has been exceptional helpful to guide us into the right directions on the island. The Gentleman is also able to organize all your transport needs.
• Pak Munamir Dukomalamo, Phone: 081 244 519 842
• Permit: Not required
• Transport: Cars or motor bikes can be arranged at the can be arranged on arrivel at the ferry terminal. Be prepared to negotiate.
• Accommodations: Only three very simple “Hotels” Home stays offer very basic rooms in Soasiu. Expect to pay about US$25 per night. Please set your expectations very low

Direction to Gunung Kiematuba

Trekking @ Indonesian Volcano Adventures

Sumatra is where spice traders and Islam first anchored after passage from India, and later, from Europe. The soil is not especially good for farming, although many volcanoes exist here. But there are still some verdant jungles and wondrous gatherings of wildlife that in most regions is seriously endangered. Sumatra is one of the world’s last frontiers (so they say) – an island of lush tropical rain forests (well they are quickly diminishing), extraordinary flora and fauna, and active volcanoes. Home of the Sumatran tiger (unfortunately very few), elephants, rhinos and orangutans, as well as a host of diverse ethnic groups. It is the third largest island of Indonesia and the fifth largest in the world (roughly the size of Spain) Vastly rich in natural resources, over half of the country’s exports come from the treasure trove of Sumatra’s bounty of oil, natural gas, hardwood, rubber, palm oil, coffee, tea and sugar. Hiking @ Gunung Dempo

South Sumatra

South Sumatra is made up of the provinces of Lampung, Bengkulu, Jambi and the Riau Archipelago. Nearly all of Jambi and the eastern two thirds of Lampung are made up of broad alluvial lowlands no more then thirty meters above sea level. Numerous meandering rivers, including Sungai Batanghari, navigable for nearly 500 km inland, and the Musi, Sumatra’s longest river, drain the entire area. Western Lampung province is mountainous, rising to volcanic peaks of more then 3000 meters before dropping sharply to the Indian Ocean at the former British colonial outpost of Bengkulu. Trekking @ Gunung Dempo Sumatra

Bengkulu

The British founded the seaport town of Bengkulu formerly known as Bencoolen, in 1685. Benteng Marlborough was constructed in 1762 as a castle with a gatehouse that contains old gravestones with English inscriptions. Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, who later founded Singapore, was lieutenant governor of Bengkulu from 1818 to 1823. He introduced coffee and sugar cultivation, established schools and fought a royal decision to hand control of Sumatra over to the Dutch in 1824. His scientific zeal (as first president of the Zoological Society of London) led to the naming of the giant Rafflesia flower in his honor. The flower can be found in the Dendam Taksuda Botanical Gardens. Hiking @ Gunung Dempo

The sad reality

So far the introduction to South Sumatra sounded like the text from a guidebook and just the way travelers would like to see the place. Vast rainforests, Tigers, Elephants, Orangutans, Rhinos, beaches, turtles…etc. Reality unfortunately is very different. This was my third visit to Sumatra, and each visit brought me into seriously remote areas of this vast island.  The only sign that very few tigers still exist in the wild were day old foot prints up on Gunung Kemiri within the Leuser National park. Forests, well yes, you still see them on mostly steep and difficult accessible hillsides. For example on Gunung Dempo tea plantations reach as high as 1900 meters. Wherever we traveled on this latest trip we witnessed more chopping of rainforest, to make space for more coffee, teas or vegetable plantations.  There are simply too many people that search for ways to earn a daily meal. Trekking @ Gunung Dempo

As throughout Indonesia on most volcanoes and mountain ranges we often find it eerie to hear how totally silent these isolated forests are. Often not even a bird can be heard. The only signs of wild life we seem to come across are earth movements and holes dug by wild boars, a creature that was introduced by the early settlers and now thrives well in all forest throughout the country. During our last stop on our return trail from Gunung Patah, in the house of a coffee grower, we met  a hunter who showed us proudly on his hand phone a video that showed the brutal hunt of a deer. His pet strangely enough was not a dog but a bird in a small cage, which he takes on all his forest searches.  Feeling sorry for this beautiful looking black bird in this tiny cage I actually wanted to buy the bird and release them back to where he belongs. Consequently I took Rp.50’000 (US$ 6 is roughly the daily income of a worker per day) from my pocket with the hope that the poacher would happily agree to this deal. He then explained that this particular bird is with him for years and if I wish to purchase the same one from the wild, then it would cost me roughly 10 times so much. Hiking @ Gunung Dempo

The hike

The entire trail is actually straightforward without major obstacles. There are two sections of each about 20 meters after “shelter two” that are very steep and require extra care. Especially after frequent down pours the muddy trail can be super slippery. A reasonably fit hiker will make it to the campsite below the summit in less than three hours. Tugu Rimau (1820 meters), the starting point is actually a very popular tourist attraction, especially during weekends and holidays when people venture into this higher altitude to enjoy the cool mountain air. It seems to be compulsory for these visitors to bring with them a meal box and plenty of plastic that they then naturally forget to bring home.  Litter everywhere. The road up from Pagar Alam through the massive tea plantation has to be the best maintained plantation road anywhere in Indonesia. Rent a motorbike in Pagar Alam for two days, as this is definitely the easiest and most convenient way to reach the starting point of the trail.

At the end of the road, at the car park it is compulsory to register with the authority. The friendly gatekeeper is also a good source of accurate information, which always comes in handy. There is also a small Warung that serves several simple but delicious snacks; you must order the grilled corn together with a delicious cup of local tea.  Be prepared to wait, as the fire where he cooks  is rather small and the queue of costumers mostly rather long. Just as on so many other volcanoes I would divide the trail into three sections. Trekking @ Gunung Dempo

Section 1- The gentle ascent

With the departure from the car park you will immediately enter a relatively healthy forest where the trek ascends at a comfortably slope. For the first 20 minutes you will notice how civilization keeps creeping higher and higher into this remoteness as there seem to be many large trees missing. Within 45 minutes you will reach the first Pos, which offers plenty of space for a comfortable rest. Unfortunately this and all other rest points including the campsite on the summit are littered with an amazing amount of rubbish, which is a real shame. Hiking @ Gunung Dempo

Section 2 – Steep and littered with roots

Shortly after departing from Pos one the trail gets noticeable steeper and with it the fun really starts. A healthy forest means lots of large trees, which obviously have lots of large roots that often create up to three meters high steps. These roots will now be your companion on the way up and assist with additional and most helpful grip especially on the way down.  This section is steep which allows you to make good progress, for the simple fact that you can fully utilize the strength of your arms to pull you up from one root to the next. The going here is different and actually most enjoyable, especially if you are fortunate enough to listen to the orchestra of Gibbons in the treetops. On the way down we had the feeling that these great monkeys played games with us and were following us at a safe distance for perhaps one hour. Despite the fact that we remained as quiet as possible we never got a glimpse of even one single monkey. Within a comfortable hour you should reach “Shelter 2” which again is just a relatively flat rest area in the woods. There is even a water source nearby. Trekking @ Gunung Dempo

Section 3 – A challenge with some views

At this high altitude the forest finally opens up in several sections allowing some great views of the surrounding. The trail maintains its steepness and the roots will be all the way with you almost to the very top. Shortly after “Shelter two” you need to conquer perhaps the trickiest and definitely the steepest of all sections. Here it is worth having a good look ahead before you enter this flank. Additional ropes will assist you with extra hold and safety. However we advise to rely mainly on the many roots for hold and not to trust the nylon strings. Again this is not a major hurdle and within five minutes you should be safely out on your way towards the first false summit, which you will reach within 30 minutes. The final 15 minutes is no longer that steep allowing you to make fast progress.  Once you reach the edge of the crater, (3045 meters) still densely forested, the trail follows the ridge straight ahead for a few hundred meters.

Within a few minutes you will reach a junction where the trail meets a second path that starts at Kampung Empat. This second trail starts at an altitude of 1400 meters and with it will take a good hour longer to reach the summit.

Shortly after this junction the trail descends for 50 meters altitude into the actual crater of Gunung Dempo, which you will reach within 10 minutes. Definitely one of the best campsites at this high altitude anywhere in Indonesia. Hiking @ Gunung Dempo

The perfect campsite

There would be space for 100 hikers to camp comfortably, and allowing plenty of privacy. As the site is within the caldera the area is protected from the often-torrential winds that are freezing cold at this altitude. There is a permanent stream (Telaga Putri) of crystal clean water emerging from a deep small valley less then 100 meters away. The water tastes lightly sulfuric and as such it is advised to boil the water first before drinking. We highly recommend to spend a night on this great mountain, as this will give you a chance to enjoy a hopefully great sun set and then the following morning an even better sun rise.

The summit

From your camp it will take only about 25 minutes to reach the actual highest point of Dempo.. There are several paths that lead towards the summit; take any one as they all end up at the same place. The final 150 meters of altitude ascent is actually the easiest part of the entire trek. Not too steep or rocky but on solid soil making good progress possible.  Just like on any other mountain or volcano it is special to reach the summit, for the simple reason that after hours of hard work you finally get a chance to see the other side of the mountain. It is the other side of Gunung Dempo that is very special. Volcanic landscape at its very best with an almost vertical drop, perhaps 150 meters down into a grey-green crater lake. Sparsely vegetated in the center, but surrounded in the distance by thick forest. It does not appear to be possible to actually surround the caldera of this relatively young crater rim. Once you ridge the edge of the rim then it is a short, perhaps 250-meter stroll to the actual highest point of Dempo. Bring with you plenty of warm clothes, sit back and enjoy the endless glorious views in every direction. Once again all the hard work and memories from a strenuous ascent are forgotten, and looking at all the mountains in the surroundings one starts to question which one will be next.

What a privilege to live on such a wonderful planet. 

Hiking @ Gunung Dempo

Summery Gunung Dempo

• Elevation: 3178 meters
• Coordinates: 

1. Summit: -4.00924,103.07672
2. Starting point car park -4.01484, 103.09275
3. Camp site -4.01356, 103.07790

• Location: South Sumatra 150 km east of Bengkulu
• Difficult grade 2-3: Relatively easy. A total of 1200 meters altitude to gain means a good three hour hike for a reasonable fit person
• Physical challenge 2:  Straight forward. The first 1/3 or 45 minutes are comfortably steep. Then the rest of the trek is just like any other volcano climb within high mountain forest. Lots of trees of course have lots of exposed roots, which will greatly assist you on the way up and especially on the way down. There are two slightly more challenging sections of about 20 meters after shelter two, that require extra attention and concentration. Some permanently installed ropes will assist you for additional safety.
• Hiking time: 3 hours up and a little quicker on the way down.
• Water source: Available at “Shelter 2” and on the summit. 1½ liters should be sufficient.
• Guide: Not essential 
• Permit: Required. You need to register at the car park starting point. Please do register for your own safety. As on any other mountain, weather conditions are difficult to predict, especially in the South of Sumatra, and accidents can occur very quickly. Once you register you can be certain that someone will look for you if you do not return in time.
• Transport: This time we decided to hire motorbikes which for obvious reasons makes traveling independently rather easy. We rented the bikes at Benkulu airport. Do not expect a well-maintained bike, but be happy if the bike is in reasonable good condition. Cost per day between US$6-US$8. Please note that all time indications are given when riding a bike. Should you travel by car or bus then one needs to add at least 50% more time.
• Bengkulu – Kehehagian 65 km 1 ½ hours. The last 20 km of the road across the hills was in rather bad condition (July 21, 2012). Beware of a lot of road works. Due to bad weather we traveled this part in the dark in a torrential tropical down pour, which was an adventure on its own.
• Kebehagian – Pagar Alam 140 km 3 ½ hours.
• Caution: Many various sources warned us not to travel this very scenic stretch at night, as apparently a lot of criminals launch frequent attacks on vehicles, trucks and motorbikes. Especial bike riders are frequently forced to stop, then knocked out and robbed. Obviously something nobody wants to experience on a hiking adventure.
• Pagar Alam – Starting point 20 km 1 hour. Magnificent ride up thousands of hectares of tea plantations. the best in Indonesia
• In Pagar Alam watch out for road signs to Gunung Dempo. The moment you ride out of Pagar Alam you will slowly make your way up to the starting point passed thousands of hectares of tea plantations. This was without a question the best maintained road across any plantation in the whole of Indonesia.
• Accommodations: Plentiful available in Kebehagian (Hotel Mutiaria is cheap and very clean) and Pagar Alam.
• Trekking @ Gunung Dempo

Direction to Gunung Dempo

Trekking @ Indonesian Volcano Adventures

Gunung Kaba must be physically the easiest or perhaps second easiest volcano summit to reach in the whole of Indonesia. The only challenger in this category would be Gunung Kelimutu onthe island of Flores. However, despite the fact that it takes hardly a sweat to reach this mountaintop, does not mean it misses out on attractiveness. On the contrary just as Kelimutu, Gunung Kaba presents a very attractive, picturesque and still smoldering active volcanic caldera. The volcano is a long way away from anywhere, but when in the area and one wants to enjoy some terrific sights and an even more interesting adventurous ride, then this volcano is actually most charming. Trekking @ Gunung Kaba

Sumatra

Sumatra is where spice traders and Islam first anchored after passage from India, and later, from Europe. The soil is not especially good for farming, although many volcanoes exist here. But there are still some verdant jungles and wondrous gatherings of wildlife that is in most regions seriously endangered. Sumatra is one of the world’s last frontiers – an island of lush tropical rainforests, extraordinary flora and fauna, and active volcanoes. Home of the Sumatran Tiger, elephants, rhinos and orangutans, as well as a host of diverse ethnic groups. It is the third largest island of Indonesia and the fifth largest in the world (roughly the size of Spain) Vastly rich in natural resources, over half of the country’s exports come from the treasure trove of Sumatra’s bounty of oil, natural gas, hardwood, rubber, palm oil, coffee, tea and sugar. Hiking @ Gunung Kaba Sumatra

South Sumatra

South Sumatra is made up of the provinces of Lampung, Bengkulu, Jambi and the Riau Archipelago. Nearly all of Jambi and the eastern two thirds of Lampung are made up of broad alluvial lowlands no more then thirty meters above sea level. Numerous meandering rivers, including Sungai Batanghari, navigable for nearly 500 km inland, and the Musi, Sumatra’s longest river, drain the entire area. Western Lampung province is mountainous, rising to volcanic peaks of more then 3000 meters before dropping sharply to the Indian Ocean at the former British colonial outpost of Bengkulu. Trekking @ Gunung Kaba

Bengkulu

The British founded the seaport town of Bengkulu formerly known as Bencoolen, in 1685. Benteng Marlborough was constructed in 1762 as a castle with a gatehouse that contains old gravestones with English inscriptions. Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, who later founded Singapore, was lieutenant governor of Bengkulu from 1818 to 1823. He introduced coffee and sugar cultivation, established schools and fought a royal decision to hand control of Sumatra over to the Dutch in 1824. His scientific zeal (as first president of the Zoological Society of London) led to the naming of the giant Raffles flower in his honor. The flower can be found in the Dendam Taksuda Botanical Gardens. Hiking @ Gunung Kaba

The sad reality

So far the introduction to South Sumatra sounded like the text from a guidebook and just the way travelers would like to see the place. Massive rainforests, tigers, elephants, orangutans, rhinos, beaches, turtles…etc. Reality unfortunately is very different. This was my third visit to Sumatra, and each visit brought me into seriously remount areas of this immense island.  The only sign that very few tigers still exist in the wild were day old prints up on Gunung Kemiri within the Leuser National park. Forests, well yes, you still see them on mostly steep and difficult accessible hillsides. For example on Gunung Dempo tea plantations reach as high as 1900 meters. Wherever we traveled on this latest trip we witnessed more hacking of rainforest, to make space for more coffee, tea, oil or vegetable plantations.  There are simply too many people that search for ways to earn a daily meal. As throughout Indonesia on most volcanoes and mountain ranges we often find it eerie to hear how totally silent these isolated forests are. Often not even a bird can be heard. The only signs of wild life we seem to come across are earth movements and holes dug by wild boars, a creature that was introduced by the early settlers and now thrives well in all forests throughout the country. Trekking @ Gunung Kaba

During our last stop on our return trail from Gunung Patah, in the house of a coffee grower, we meet a hunter who showed us proudly on his hand phone a video that showed the brutal hunt of a deer. His pet strangely enough was not a dog but a beautiful little black bird in a small cage, which he takes on all his forest searches.  Feeling sorry for this feathered friend in this tiny cage, I actually wanted to buy the bird and release it back to where he belongs. Consequently I took Rp.50’000 (US$ 6 is roughly the daily income of a worker per day) from my pocket with the hope that the poacher would happily agree to this deal. He then explained that this particular bird is with him for years and if I wish to purchase the same one from the wild, then it would cost me roughly 10 times so much. Hiking @ Gunung Kaba

UFO – Unidentified Foreign Objects

Be prepared to be famous when you travel as a white man. We were under the serious impression that we were the first white visitors to this region since Sir Stamfort Raffles departed in 1823. During our five day visit to the region at least  100 people would have approached us for a big favor. Mister, Mister, Photo. Wherever we stopped, a petrol station, a Warung, the local Padang restaurant or at the chemist where we needed to buy some medicine. The funniest incident took place when we checked in at the Mutiara Hotel in Curup (Super clean, cheap and most recommended) just as night fell. Trekking @ Gunung Kaba

Arriving on a motorbike seemed to be appropriate until the moment we took off our helmets, which then clearly unveiled that an invasion of two aliens was taking place. The moment the receptionist realised that the two UFO’s even mastered the Indonesian language and actually wanted to spend the night in the hotel, he disappeared. A few minutes later he returned with his workmate, who expressed a similar kind astonishment, but was at least able to speak out loudly two letters…… ID, ID. To his total disbelief he acknowledged that I even possessed an Indonesian ID card. After staring at the card for a while he took a hotel registration form, which he then gave to me to sign after a seemingly endless long time. Just as expected the form was thoroughly and properly filled out including all my specific details that read HENS………Next he handed over two keys and simply disappeared. Hiking @ Gunung Kaba

The information on Kaba that we collected prior to our trip was anything but super basic and seriously inaccurate.  There is a road almost to the very top, where there is a car park that includes a Warung for early morning coffee. From the car park a set of stairs will lead you all the way to the rim of the caldera, and this will take at least one hour. This was the description given to us by the hotel owner of the Mutiara Hotel in Curup.

The drive

With all this detailed and highly precise information in mind we departed Curup at 4.30am heading towards somewhere. The marching order given told us that after a few kilometers you need to turn right. It turned out that the few kilometers were almost 25 where at the village of Tiawang you will eventually find a sign that directs you towards the tourist attraction Kaba. Slowly the road winds out of the town through rice fields and eventually passes hectares and hectares of vegetable and rice plantations.  After about 15 minutes you will get to the gate where you have to register your presence on the volcano. As we passed rather early, the gate was open and the gatekeeper probably somewhere having his breakfast. Trekking @ Gunung Kaba

The ascent

Shortly after the gate the road starts climbing and winding quickly up towards the summit. Vegetable plantations on the left and plantations on the right, the scenery is stunning and we had our fun forcing our little motor bikes up the relatively steep slope. It highly impressed me that the road just recently received a new coat of tar. Well, the moment I had thoughts about how well this “popular” tourist road is maintained, the entire scenery changed dramatically. Virtually within a minute the plantations ended and we entered rather thick forest, and the road became a trail just wide enough to allow a motorbike to tunnel through the bushes. If you enjoy riding on two motorized wheels then you will love the next 10 kilometers towards the summit. Trail riding at its best, not challenging or dangerous at all but simply fun to navigate across the fast eroding “tourist road”. Eventually after less then 30 minutes you will reach a section, which even for a bike is too tricky, unless you bring with you one of the fancy 250cc trial bikes. Hiking @ Gunung Kaba

The mini hike

At last we were able to do what we came here for, we got a chance to hike. Unfortunately only for about 10 minutes before we reached the earlier mentioned car park that has not seen a car for years as well as a structure, which once was a small Warung, that properly has not served a hungry visitor this millennium. Trekking @ Gunung Kaba Sumatra

The summit

Finally we reached the endless staircase as described by the Hotel owner in Curup. It would take at least an hour to reach the caldera. This would be correct if you stop at every fifth step for a while and enjoy yet another “kretek” clove cigarette. It took us a little more then five minutes to conquer the 200 steps or so to yet another magnificent volcanic wonderland. The still smoldering center of the crater looks barren and hostile, with a small water filled lagoon in the center. There must be at least 20 vents in various areas where sulfuric fumes escape, which again prevents any vegetation from growing in the closer area.  If time permits there is even a track that leads into the center of the caldera. Once again it is worthwhile to sit back and marvel at the scenery close by as well in the surrounding and in the far distance. Hiking @ Gunung Kaba Sumatra

Summery Gunung Kaba

Elevation:  1952 meters

Location: About 100 km south east of Bengkulu

Difficult Grade 1: 20 minutes of easy step climbing

Physical Challenge 1: “A walk in the park”

Hiking time: 20 minutes up and 20 minutes down

Water source: Not available

Guide: Not essential

Permit: Not required

Transport:

This time we decided to hire motorbikes which for obvious reasons makes traveling independently rather easy. We rented the bikes at Benkulu airport. Do not expect a well-maintained bike, but be happy if the bike is in reasonable good condition. Cost per day between US$6-US$8.

Please note that all time indications are given when riding a 125cc motorbike. Should you travel by car or bus then one needs to add at least 50% more time.

Bengkulu – Kehehagian 65 km 1 ½ hours. The last 20 km of the road across the hills was in rather bad condition (July 21, 2012). Beware of a lot of road works. Due to bad weather we traveled this part in the dark in a torrential tropical down pour, which was an adventure on its own.

Kebehagian – Curup 22 km, 40 minutes.

Curup – Gunung Kaba via Tiawang 49 km. 1 hour 40 minutes. Out of Curup take Jalan Curup – Lubuk Linggau until Tiawang where you turn off towars Gunung Kaba

Accommodation: Plentiful in Kebehagian and Curup (Hotel Mutiarias are cheap and very clean)

Directions to Gunung Kaba

Trekking @ Indonesian Volcano Adventures

The setting:

For some mountains it is great to be on the summit for sunrise, meaning that the ascent is always a race in the dark against the sun. Then there are mountains where it is worth spending the night close to, or on the summit for a super cold night, but a very special daybreak with a sunrise that will be in your memories forever. Other volcanoes or mountains you should approach just like so many mountains in the European Alps, rise early and start your hiking adventure when the first rays of the sun illuminate the surrounding. Gunung Ungaran is definitely a mountain you should hike up during day light hours, as the scenery especially in the lower section is simply breathtaking. The setting says it all… 9 magnificent Hindu temples that are more then 1100 years old and a kaleidoscope of volcanoes as a backdrop making this part of central Java seriously striking. Trekking @ Gunung Ungaran Java

Gedong Songo Temple:

The adventure starts at the entrance to the Gedong Songo Temple complex, a set of ancient Hindu shrines dating back to the ninth century. You are required to purchase a ticket, which is essential as the actual trail turns of the main tourist track a few hundred meters up hill. After entering the gate follow the main path to the first Candi, which will take only a few minutes. Here it is of utmost important to stop and enjoy the astonishing views of the surrounding volcanoes. The twins of Gunung Sumbung and Sindoro a little closer and in the southeast the massive Gunung Merbabu with Gunung Merapi make a dramatic backdrop in the golden early morning sun. Hiking @ Gunung Ungaran Java

The trail:

With many great images in your camera continue to follow the main path for a couple hundred meters uphill where soon you will reach a set of solidly built wooden Warungs that sell the usual selection of refreshments and lots of   tacky souvenirs. Pass these Warungs straight up for about 100 meters or until the main path turns to the left, slightly down hill. It is here where a small trail leads you into thick forest where a small but relatively well-defined track will lead you into the right direction. Within a few meters you will reach the steepest section of the entire track that winds zig zag up the flank of the mountain and in less then 20 minutes you will gain about 150 meters of altitude. Once this steepest section is behind, the trail then continues to ascend comfortably steeply through picturesque forest that is littered with an array of colorful wild flowers. Trekking @ Gunung Ungaran

The 20-minute interval:

In some ways the 20-minute rhythm continues and before long you will get out of the dense forest and for the next couple of hundred meters you cross a grassed flank that follows the ridge thirty to forty meters high above.

This short section is not very steep and shortly after you get back into the forest you arrive at a terrific campsite that is embedded and protected by giant old trees. This will end the first hour of a most joyful early morning hike at an altitude of 1750 meters and with it is also the halfway point. Hiking @ Gunung Ungaran

The second hour:

The following 100 meters of altitude are once again rather steep and can be quite tricky on the way down, especially during rainy days when the soil is wet and with it can be rather slippery. However a little extra attention and some additional support from small trees, bushes and roots will assist you greatly, especially on the way down. Then at 1900 meters you will arrive at another ridge with yet another Y-junction. Here you take the left trail which will lead you first down the side of what appears to bean ancient crater of a long extinct volcano that is now densely forested. After about 50 meters the trail flattens and crosses the base for a good 150 meters before once again ascending up the side of the rim. Trekking @ Gunung Ungaran

The overgrown circumnavigation:

From this point it will take another good 30 minutes of solid hiking to reach the summit. Rather large portions of these upper sections are totally overgrown by grass and at times it is a bit of guess – work where the actual bottom of the track is. Simply follow your nose and instinct, slow a little down as it is actually quite easy to work out where to place your foot. Somehow it seems that you circumnavigate the summit and gradually make your way to the top. Along the entire trail you will notice iron signs with the inscription CANDI that will guide you safely up and down from Gunung Ungaran. Only the last 50 meters of the actually summit are not forested. These will reward you with absolutely stunning views in every direction. Hiking @ Gunung Ungaran Java

The beauty and the clouds:

Gunung Ungaran definitely deserves a detour from the “Big 3000 meter volcanoes” as you are rewarded with stunning views in every section of the trail. Ancient Candies, beautiful forests, a large variety of flowers and to top it all the mountain offers a great work out. Despite all these great features make certain to be on the summit well before 10 am as it seems common for the clouds to come in around this time and cover the summit in heavy clouds which seem to burst almost daily into serious down pours. Trekking @ Gunung Ungaran.

Summary Gunung Ungaran:

• Elevation: 2050 meters
• Coordinates
• Summit: -7.183502,110.348396
• Gedong Songo Temples:-7.209709,110.342131
• Location: Central Java 100 km north of Yogyakarta or
• 40 km South of Semerang
• Difficult Grade: 2. The trail is rather with two relatively steep sections. The first one begins almost immediately once you depart the Gedong Songo temple area. The second steep section begins immediately after the1/2 way camp site.
• Physical Challenge: 2. Good shoes will greatly help in the upper section where the path is often over grown and after downpours can be rather slipery
• Hiking time: 4 – 4 ½ hours for round trip
• Water source: None. 3 liters recommended
• Guide: Not essential
• Permit: Not required
• Transport: Yogyakarta – Magelang – Secang –  Pingit – Jambu – Ambarawa – Bandungan
• Start of trail: Bandungan – Gedong Songo Temples – 5 km
• US$ 3.50 on the back of a motorbike
• Accommodation: Plentiful available for any budget in Bandungan

Direction to Gunung Ungaran:

Hiking @ Indonesian Volcano Trekking

Every mountain is remembered for some specific facts, sights and reasons. Some volcanoes are tall and very strenuous to climb, others are isolated and it takes forever to get to the starting point of the hike, and then there is Gunung Muria which is the shortest of any mountain we have climbed in Indonesia.  But it is not for this that we remember this incredible picturesque mountain “Shorty”. What really struck us is the peacefulness and harmony of the entire mountain range, and the way it seems to bring people together. On one side there is Colo that is a most important pilgrim place for Muslims, then there is a very strong Christian movement in the area and then there is still plenty of space on the summit of Puncak 29 where very recently a new Hindu temple was build. It seems so easy that various groups of religious orientations can live together. Trekking @ Gunung Muria Java

Gunung Muria is a long dormant volcano in the center of the Muria peninsula, on the central north cost of Java, approximately 80 km east of the city of Semarang. This region is known for several historical and cultural reasons.

It is home to the gravesites of two of the Wali Sanga of Java – Sunan Muria, also known as Raden Umar Said, whose grave is in Colo on the southern slopes of Mount Muria, and Sunan Kudus, known also as Ja’far Shadiq, whose grave is in the city of Kudus. The Wali Sanga are the nine Islamic Saints associated with the spread of Islam in Java. These graves are part of the network of Islamic sites in Java considered to be sacred. The name Kudus means “holy.”  Kudus  is the only city in Indonesia with an Arabic name.

Then the same area is home to the Gereja Kristen Muria Indonesia Mennonite (Muria Mennonite Christian Church in Indonesia or GKMI). The church has more than 16,000 followers living in Java, Bali, Sumatra and Kalimantan. GKMI started as an Indigenous Christian movement that was started by Tee Siem Tat and Sie Dioen Nio a Chinese Indonesian couple in the city of Kudus before 1920. The group identified with the Mennonite family of churches when the first believers sought baptism from Russian Mennonite missionaries working under the Dutch Mennonite Mission (Doopsgezinde Zendingsvereeniging) in the Muria area in December 1920.

Major crops of the Muia and Kudus region are rice, sugar, coffee, fish, rubber, coconuts, clove and clove cigarettes factories and a large variety of vegetables and fruits in the higher regions. Then on the way to Kudus from Semerang there are several large textile factories. Hiking @ Gunung Muria

The ascent:

One of the trails to reach Puncak 29, the highest of a number of various summits starts in the village of Rahtawu at an elevation of 820 meters. The well-defined trek is pretty much in perfect condition right from the beginning to the very summit. As the steep mountainside of the lower section is heavily farmed the surrounding villages use the rather large farm track as a main route to bring their harvest to the markets in the surrounding villages down in the valleys.

The first kilometer of the trail leads almost flat into the deep valley with the actual summit clearly visible straight ahead high above slightly to the left. The views in this lower section are already stunning with a good flowing mountain stream deep down embedded to the left and many smaller streams flowing down from countless smaller valleys. Trekking @ Gunung Muria Java

The intersection:

After crossing several streams, in about 20 minutes, you will reach a Y-section with a stone marker that points straight to the left towards KEPUNTON and PUNCAK 29 and towards SAPTOHGO, SENDANG and BUNTON to the right.  Take the left turn and follow the path that is just over one kilometer shorter than when taking the trail to the right. Eventually both trails will meet again further up and bring you to the same summit. Trekking @ Gunung Muria

The tiny settlement:

Turn right and after 20 minutes you will reach a small settlement with a tiny Warung. The lady running this food stall seems to be too happy and delighted to serve you some refreshments. Coffee and cakes are highly recommended. Shortly after the turn off towards this small village the trail gets quickly much steeper allowing gaining altitude quickly. Then about 20 minutes after you pass the village the trail will once again join the main trail to the summit. People living in this area grow lots of coffee, some vegetables and a little fruit. Hiking @ Gunung Muria

The stone marker:

If you decide earlier at the stone marker for the trail straight ahead towards Puncak 29, then the big wide path quickly gets substantially steeper allowing good and quick progress. With every meter altitude gained the views and with it the scenery gets better and better, especially in the early morning sun. The entire area is covered by forest which offers some shade if hike during the day.Trekking @ Gunung Muria

The part time settlement:

At an altitude of 1340 meters you will reach a small deserted settlement consisting of several small buildings. These small living quarters appear to be occupied only during the dry season between April to October. Safely protected by the buildings you will pass in the center a small shrine with three small gravestones. We really enjoyed the many colorful flowers in this area. Hiking @ Gunung Muria

The intermezzo:

Once you get passed this “Mini Village” then there is only 30 minutes of steep and slightly more stringent hiking ahead of you. The forest now gives quickly way to smaller vegetation that allows spectacular views in every direction. This is without question the steepest section of the entire trail.

After about 15 minutes into this section you will reach once again a slightly flatter 50 meters, where at the end towards the mountain a small shrine clearly is one of strong Hindu presence over the past centuries. Hiking @ Gunung Muria Java

The finale:

Just after this small religious monument the still well defined and maintained trail gets quickly rather steep and winds zig zag up the flank of the hillside and within 20 minutes you will reach the summit where Pak Sijan the Warung 29 care taker will welcome you with the friendliest happy smile you have ever seen. Next to the Warung is a beautiful Hindu temple that was build only very recently, and is often used by worshippers as a place to meditate. After a little rest and a change of t-shirts Pak Sijan will serve you the finest strong Robusta coffee you have ever tasted on a mountain. If time permits, then this summit is the perfect place to spend a night and with it enjoy a hopefully glorious sunset and then the following morning a sunrise in a thorough paradise. There is water for a wash and you will be looked after by a sincere genuine host. Trekking @ Gunung Muria

The summit:

To reach the actual summit you will need to follow the ridge for a further 300 meters eastward. Here at the highest point of Gunung Muria you find again a small Hindu shrine that is frequently used by worshippers. If the weather Gods are kind and the sun is out, then the views from this peak are simply spectacular. On clear days you can see as far as Gunung Sumbing and Sindore in the distant West and Gunung Lawu a little closer to the East. Turn around and the coastline of the Muria peninsula can clearly be seen. Hiking @ Gunung Muria

Beautiful people:

The highlight of the journey was definitely the time we spent talking to the Pak Sijan the Warung care taker and one of his close friends, a retired university professor that spend some quality days resting on the summit. Once again, just like on so many other mountains we meet people with such a clear, open and friendly mind that it made us jealous for not being able to spend more quality time with these two genuine gentlemen in remote parts of this great country. Trekking @ Gunung Muria Java

Summery Gunung Muria:

• Elevation: 1625 meter
• Coordinates: -6.616439,110.89041
• Location: Central Java 80 km east of Semerang
• Difficult Grade: 2 for the ascent
• Physical Challenge: 2
• Hiking time: 4 – 4 ½ hours for round trip
• Water source: 1 ½ liter recommended. Available from mountain stream in lover section
• Warung serves refreshments on summit
• Guide: Not essential
• Permit: Not required
• Transport: Semerang – Kudus by public bus 60 km, Air-conditioned US$0.80
• Kudus – Rahtawu by public mini van 20 km US$4.50 one way,
• Or on the back of a motor bike $4.50 one way

Trekking @ Indonesian Volcano Adventures

Most travelers visiting the Dieng Plateau will make their journey to this high altitude plateau for several main reasons. One to escape from the tropical heat of densely populated cities of central Java. Two to visit the ancient, well  over 1000 years old temple ruins, and three for the scenic beauty of this volcanic wonderland. While in the area and if you enjoy hiking, why not to add a fourth reason and venture up to the rim of the caldera, which will offer superb views in various locations? ”Provided the weather is on your side”. Trekking @ Gunung Prau

Ancient Dieng:

The lofty Dieng Plateau is home to the oldest Hindu temples in Java that were built between the 7^th and the 9^th century. The name Dieng comes from Di-Hyang (Adobe of the Gods) and it is believe that this was once a flourishing temple-city. Over 400 temples were built and covered the highland plain, of which only eight small temples still remain. They are often shrouded in mist and also known as the nation’s main potato growing area. The temples are simple in detail but it is the extraordinary beauty of the surroundings and the close proximity to volcanic activity with bright colored sulfur springs, lakes and bubbling mud holes that are an immense tourist attraction. Especially during weekends, locals from Semarang and Yogyakarta overrun the place as they escape from the humid heat of the tropics. The landscape is simply stunning, steep mountainsides terraced with vegetable plots enclose the huge volcanically active plateau, a marshy caldera of a collapsed volcano. Many great walks can be made around the village of Dieng, or a walk or a 7 km bike ride to Java’s highest village, Sembungan should be a must. Hiking @ Gunung Prau

Sunrise in the mist of Gunung Sikunir:

One should not stop at the village Sembungan but continue the ride or hike passed the village, following the only road through the village. About 1 km after the village passing the crater lake and more vegetable plantations you will get to a car park which during high season (May- October) houses  a small Warung serving simple refreshments and of course some delicious hot coffee, that always comes in handy in the very cool early morning hours. Remember you are well over 2000 meter over sea level where the temperature often drops into the low tens in the early morning hours. This again means that a warm jacket is absolutely essential.  In this area look out for a very special type papaya tree, with fruits that hang tightly clustered from the top of the stem. Trekking @ Gunung Prau Central Java

Breakfast glory:

From the car park follow the large well-defined path for a good 30 minutes. The first 400 meters ascends slightly passed more terraced vegetable and potato fields and more interesting, unusual fruit plants. Then, just  as you get towards the first ridge the path turns to the right and winds steeply up the mountainside. Here the trail is steep but offers little challenges and within 15 minutes you will reach the first main look out that offers some of Indonesia’s best scenic views.  Right in front of you towers the well over 3000 meter high Gunung Sindoro, to the south East Gunung Merbabu with one of Indonesia’s most active volcanos, Gunung Merapi on its side. Breathtaking is also the steep drop down into the valley with countless vegetable terrasses carved in to the hillside, and several villages nestled along the river on the foot hills. Trekking @ Gunung Prau

A little extra for paradise:

Do not stop at this point for too long and make your way a little further up the hillside. Then just as you leave this view point on the way back, a small trail will lead you to the left up to yet another and much better vantage point. Due to the fact that this section is rarely used the trail can be rather overgrown as it was in our case. Despite this fact you will have little challenge working out the direction of the path. Within 20 minutes and climbing a few more altitude meters you will get out of the woods and the scenery in every direction is simply stunning. From the highest point you will have endless views to the west, with the village of Sembungan and its own small crater lake deep below. This would also be a terrific area to set up camp for the night, as it offers plenty of firewood and many small hilltops that protect you from the often-torrential cold winds. Hiking @ Gunung Prau

Gunung Prau:

Unfortunately when we arrived in Dieng the weather was not exactly on our side with rain and heavy clouds covering the mountaintops. But then within an hour after our arrival the skies cleared and without thinking too much we decided to immediately pack our raincoats, get a bottle of water, and as always a change of t-shirt and immediately embark for the summit of the caldera. As we stayed in the center of Dieng in Bu Djono’s home stay, the trail started virtually behind the home stay which is next to the main turn off to Wonosobo. We departed for our short hike just after 3.30 pm in the afternoon.  Right behind the home stay the trail first leads for a hundred meters passed a few more rows of houses before a set of stairs will lead you steeply up towards the town’s cemetery, which you will reach within less then 10 minutes. Surrounded and protected by large trees, this last burial ground can clearly be seen from the village. A short stroll around this last resting place is well worth a stop. Trekking @ Gunung Prau Central Java

The trail:

The farm trail now flattens and leads for about 1 km passed mainly potato, spring onion and cabbage plantations. Then at an elevation of 2123 meters you will leave the plantations behind you and enter the forest, which will stay with you right to the summit. As you enter the forest the trail will ascend more steeply on a well-defined good trail that offers plenty of good grip. Simply follow a power line that will lead you up the mountain into the right direction. Within 20 minutes you will reach a border marker of Wonosobo,(2390 meters) which is located right on the ridge of the caldera. Here the path flattens for a few meters and then gets rather steep, winding up the mountainside. 50 meters higher the trek gets even steeper and the last 150 meters of altitude will challenge your fitness  slightly, your heart beat rises quickly and as normal within a few minutes you will bathe in your own sweat. Unfortunately this work out will only last a good 20 minutes before you reach the slowly collapsing TV-Tower.  Be careful on the way down, as this section in wet conditions, as it was in our case can be very slippery. Trekking @ Gunung Prau

The grey summit:

For a change we remember the summit of Gunung Prahu not for the incredible views from this point, but for the absolute horrible weather conditions. Here we stood, almost on top of another mountain and the wind was howling and cold. Thick mist covered the entire mountaintop in a dark grey blanket that barely allowed us to see our hands in front of our face. Protected by our high quality rain jacket and warmed by thermal Merino wool jumper we actually enjoyed the bad weather tremendously. Hiking @ Gunung Prau

Bad weather conclusion:

Yes it is very special to be on top of a mountain after an exhausting climb and enjoy the views in perfect weather conditions. But lets face it, weather on most mountains is unpredictable and why should one be stopped by a “little” (in our case it was pouring), rain, wind and other circumstances to stay at home? However it is of utmost importance when venturing into alpine regions to bring only the very best gear that money can buy. Then only the very best will keep you dry and warm and with it will bring you safely back from where you started.

Summery Gunung Prau:

Elevation: 2599 meters
Coordinates: -7.189889,109.926109
Location: Central Java 120 north west of Yogyakarta
Difficult Grade: 2 Easy comfortable hike and good trail
Physical Challenge: 2 Easy
Hiking time: 3 hours for round trip
Water source: 1 ½ liter recommended                                            
Guide: Not essential
Permit: Not required
Transport: Yogyakarta – Dieng 120 km 4 hours, Plenty of public transports available
Yogyakarta – Magelang – Secang – Parakan Kauman – Parakan – Kledung – Kertek – Wonosobo – Dieng
Accommodations: Plentiful available in Dieng. Ranging from cheap to very cheap, and very very basic

Trekking @ Indonesian Volcano Adventures

If it is your aim to get off the beaten trek in Bali and discover a spectacular volcanic wonderland from a different angle, then Gunung Abang has something very special on offer. Every guidebook and tourist office will sell and recommend you a sunrise on the crater rim of Gunung Batur, which is the central cone of the Kintamani Caldera. With a diameter of 10 km, a colorful lake embedded on the south and the ancient Aga village of Trunyan on its shores,  the area offers plenty of eruptive history as well as cultural anecdotes making it a must visit destination. However due to the popularity as a tourist destination there is a rather sad downside making a visit not always very pleasant. The healthy tourist trade brought in lots of welcomed tourist dollars, which also spoiled and tarnished the helpfulness and sincerity of the locals. Hiking @ Gunung Abang

Prayers as business:

There is really one incident that comes to my mind when we recall our journey to Gunung Abang. Please keep in mind that my wife Puji is Balinese and joined me on this adventure. On the way out of Kintamani towards the starting point of the trail one has to follow the main road towards Pura Besakih the mother temple. Within five minutes following the winding road along the caldera we were stopped by a Balinese lady carrying a tray of offerings. It is common practice that such ladies will place an offering on your windscreen, do a little prayer and then ask for a small donation. This was slightly different in this instance, where the lady did not place one but decorated the car with a dozen offerings, spoke a loud prayer for my wife, then come around the car and repeated the same with me, went back to my wife and demanded a little donation of Rp.300’000 which is the equivalent of about US$35 or the disposable income that a Balinese family would have in five days. This really displays the attitude many of the locals in the area have towards foreigners. However once you overcome this hurdle then your adventure into the highland of Bali will become a most memorable and positive discovery. Trekking @ Gunung Abang

Trunyan on the foot of Gunung Abang:

On the shore of Lake Batur and on the foot of Gunung Abang lies one of the two remaining ancient Aga Villages of Bali that offer a rather macabre tourist attraction. Think twice before you decide to visit the rather unusual grave yard.There is a small cemetery known as Trunyan, where people from the nearby village of Kuban “bring” their dead to rest on top of the ground. This unusual practice has become something of a macabre tourist attraction. Perhaps it is not really an “attraction” but a place that pricks people’s curiosity. The local people, though, have clearly become used to tourists coming to this site and so haggle constantly for donations, which apparently are then given to the dead.

One can only reach this site by boat, a small fleet of which await visitors at the end of a wooden jetty where the stunning Mount Batur looks on. Crossing the lake to Trunyan takes about 30 minutes and upon arrival a small huddle of men awaits any arriving boats.

The cemetery is small and in desperate need of maintenance. Although this is the final resting place a sense of respect for the dead does seem to be in short supply here. Human skulls are lined up on stonewall shelves and bones are scattered all over the floor, which creates a rather eerie sight. However the elderly will invite you to pick up a skull and pose together with you for a photo, this of course for a generous donation.Trekking @ Gunung Abang

In this final resting place, the bodies of the deceased are just covered in cloth and laid into a bamboo cages on the floor below a huge banyan tree. These cages are flimsy and practically leave the body out in the open to the elements.

This creates an obvious concern; dead bodies left out in the open will of course decompose and the potential for unwelcome odors and even health concerns is real. However here, apparently, the presence of a banyan tree, described as holy, has warded off such concerns.

The huge banyan tree seems to stand as a guarding and protective figure of this cemetery. Its leaves carpet the ground around the gravesite and presumably this is part of the way in which the tree keeps the area free from unwelcome odors and so on. Trekking @ Gunung Abang Bali

To the start of the trail:

Follow the main road from the main tourist area in Kintamani towards the mother temple Pura Besakih. The road follows for the first 4 km right along the rim of the caldera. Then unmistakable the road will turn right descending down the hillside. It is here where a small road leads straight ahead and continues to follow the crater rim. Then after about one kilometer you will reach Pura Munggu in Desa Abang a small temple with a large car park. It is wise to park here and ask the lady in the small Warung to look after your vehicle while you make your way to the summit.

From here it will take about 20 minutes along the slowly deteriorating small road that is used as farm trek by locals to bring their harvest to the markets in the valley. After about two kilometers or 25 minutes hiking the small road will part from the crater rim and make a sharp right turn that marks the beginning of the trail. Here on the left is a small clearing in the forest which makes it possible to park a car or your motor bikes. Hiking @ Gunung Abang Bali

The hike: 

If you depart early in the morning to be on the summit for sunrise, then the first 20 minutes ask for a little extra attention to stay on the right trail. In this lower section the forest is regularly harvested  for wood to make charcoal, which results in a criss cross of paths that often end up in the midst of very dense forest.

Worshipers mostly visit Gunung Abang during auspicious days for prayers at the temple on the summit. It looked like during our visit, we must have been the first visitors in a long time to take this route as such large portions of the trail were heavily overgrown and virtually not visible. Despite this fact one seems to be able to work out relatively easily which way to go. Trekking @ Gunung Abang Bali

The 2-½ hour ascent can be divided into three distinctive sections. The first 30-minute leads comfortably steeply up through healthy high altitude forest, where one makes good progress. Yes the path is partially heavily over grown, but offers very little technical challenges. This section will end at a little shrine right on the rim of the crater that offers tremendous views on the way down.

Then just after this little shrine it gets really steep and rather slow going for the next 30 minutes. One must take a little extra care and at times hands are needed for additional protection and safety. There are some rather high steps where one has to scramble over and across. This section ends again in a flatter area where there are four little shrines that are frequently used by worshippers on their way to the summit.

Following a short flat 50 meters the trail leads again steeply up into the forest. This final section will take a good 45 minutes and give your body a terrific physical work out. Yes it is steep, but the track is covered with lots of foliage offering plenty of grips on the way up and down, making it a most memorable section.

What really touched me deeply when I reach the summit was the combination of a completely overgrown temple that glowed up in the early morning sunlight. There was something very mythical and mystic on this summit, which gave me the feeling that you would be in direct contact with the spirits that own and possess this mountain. I was most fortunate and privileged that I was able to spend well over one hour all on my own enjoying the stunning scenery that unveiled in front of me. Gunung Batur and Kintamani to the North. Gunung Rinjani on Lombok in the fare East and through the woods I was able to spot the contour of Gunung Agung to the South. Hiking @ Gunung Abang

Summery Gunung Abang:

• Elevation:  2151 meters
• Coordinates:           
• Summit:                        -8.280464,115.429659
• Starting point:            -8.2859,115.409317
• 
• Temple car park:            -8.2859,115.409317
• Kintamani turn off:            -8.284201,115.365114
• Location:           
• North East Bali 80 km from Ngurah Rai international airport
• Difficult Grade: 2   relatively easy.
• 
• Physical Challenge: 3  One should be in good physical condition.
• Some sections offer some moderate challenges.
• Hiking time:  4-5 hours for round trip
• Water source: No water source on mountain. 2 ½ liters should be sufficient.
• 
• Guide:  Not essential
• Permit: Not required. Make a donation to the temple caretakers.
• Transport: Plenty of various transportations available.
• Take your pick: Motorbike, taxi, public transport
• 
• Bali international Airport – Kintamani 80km
• Airport – Sanur – Klungkung – Rendang – Besakih – Kintamani
• Accommodations: Plentiful available in Kintamani and down by the lake
• Trekking @ Gunung Abang

Trekking @ Indonesian Volcano Adventures

Ancient tales:

When looking at the history of Gunung Lawu one cannot ignore the story about the three summits, Hargo Dumilah, Hargo Dalem and Hargo Dumling. Each has its own legend and mystery. The story began during the government of Sinuwun Nata Bhrawijaya Pamungkas at Majapahit Kingdom. At that time, the King’s wife, Dara Petak gave birth to a son, Raden Fatah. Unlike his father Raden Fatah chose to convert to Islam as he grew up. He then established a Kingdom in Glagah Wangi (Demark). This caused great grief to his father, who then turned to meditation in search for guidance from God. His newly found understanding and perception showed that the glow of the Majapahit Kingdom would fade away and the divine revelation would shift to the Demak Kingdom.Trekking @ Gunung Lawu Central Java

The King then left the Kingdom and fled to Gunung Lawu escorted by Sabdopalon. Ontheir journey to the summit they met Dipa and Wangsa Menggala, two village heads that escorted the King to Hargo Dalem the summit. Before retreating at Hargo Dalem the King designated Dipa Menggala as the ruler Gunung Lawu and to be in charge of the invisible of the area. The King also appointed Wangsa Menggala as the vice regent and honored him with the title of Kyai Jalak.

Due to their loyalty and perfection of supernatural power, Dipa and Wangsa Menggala turned into mystical creatures to carry out the King’s mandate. Thus until today Gunung Lawu is still closely related to the cultural tradition of the Yogyakarta and Surakarta Palace.

The Massive Gunung Lawu, lying on the border between Central and East Java and is one of Java’s holiest mountains. Mysterious Hindu Temples dot its slopes and because of the colorful past, each year thousand’s of pilgrims seek spiritual enlightenment by climbing its peak. The unique temples on the mountain are actually the last ones that were built in Java before the region converted to Islam. The most famous ones are Candi Sukuh and Candi Ceto. Hiking @ Gunung Lawu

A climb filled with lots of little bonuses:

Due to the colorful history of Gunung Lawu and the fact that annually thousands of pilgrims make their way to the summit it is no surprise that the trek is by far the best maintained path to any summit in Indonesia that is over 3000 meters.  A further bonus is the fact that the starting point is at an altitude at 1800 meters, meaning that the actual climb covers “only “ about 1400 meters altitude. Comfortable accommodation only 150 meters below the summit, giving you a chance to forget your tent at home. To our greatest astonishment our host for the night not only cooked a delicious hot dinner but also stocked a little store with all the essentials for the hungry adventurer. But what makes Gunung Lawu special are the views, which are thoroughly stunning. It is actually very easily possible to climb this mountain in one relatively long 8-9 hour hiking day. However I strongly suggest spending the night near the summit in one of the hostels. Depart during the later part of the morning and reach the summit around 4.  This will give you a terrific chance to marvel at a hopefully spectacular sunset, and then an even more beautiful sunrise the next morning.Trekking @ Gunung Lawu Central Java

A walk in the park:

The adventure starts in Cemoro Sewu where at the beginning of the trek one has to register and pay a small entrance fee. Bring along copies of your ID or Pass Port. An additional packet of clove cigarettes is always most welcomed by the caretakers and will greatly speed up the administrative component, which often can be rather time consuming and frustrating. The entire path to the summit is rather straightforward without offering any specific challenges. The scenery is great and the mountain constantly rewards you with a magnificent landscape. There are 4 pos (rest points) along the route and it will take approximately one hour to reach each of the points. The lower sections will cross some vegetable plantations followed by a forested section and as you get higher the trees will give way to high alpine bush land.Trekking @ Gunung Lawu

Starting point Cemoro Sewu 1800 m:

Pos 1:  Taman Sari Bawah, Wesen-wesen 2203 m

Pos 2: Taman Sari Atas, Watu Gedeg 2589 m

Pos 3:  Sendang Panguripan, Watu Gede 2787 m

Pos 4: Cokro Srengenge, Watu Kapur 3099 m

Overnight camp:  Jolo Tundo  3177 m

Argodumilah: Summit 3265 m

Argodalam:  Second lower summit 3170 m

The descent:

The easiest way back is obviously to take the same path as you come up. However there is actually a rather seldom taken second bath which is a little longer but will end up at the same starting point. It is best to ask for directions at the summit, which the locals will happily give you. Another smart alternative would be to ask a local to guide you for the first ½ hour until you reach the defined trail which is in good condition and can be easily followed. If the weather is clear you will get some fabulous views of Gunung Merapi on the far horizon.Trekking @ Gunung Lawu Central Java

Summery Gunung Lawu:

Elevation: 3065 meters
Coordinates: 
Gunung Lawu summit  -7.627162, 111.194344
Cemoro Kandang, starting point -7.627162, 111.18782
Location: 110 km northeast from Yogyakarta on the border between central and east. The journey will take roughly 3-4 hours on a public bus
Difficult Grade V2: Moderate: No major obstacles along the entire trek. Keep sudden weather changes in mind and bring a good raincoat and some warm clothing. The morning on the summit can be very windy and very cold.
Physical Challenge V2: Moderate:  Straight forward if you are in reasonable good condition. From all the tall volcanoes in Java, Gunung Lawu is perhaps the easiest one to climb.
Hiking time: 4 ½ hours up and 4 hours down
Water source: 2½ liters is sufficient for the climb. Water available just below the summit in one of the Warungs.
Guide: Not essential
Permit: Registration essential at park entrance in Cemoro Kendang US$0.50
Transport: Yogyakarta-Depok–Prambanan-Ceper-Solo-Mojolaban-Karanganyar- Tawangmangu-Cemoro Kandang. Plenty of public busses available.
Accommodation: There are serviced shelters on the summit, which provide a cooked meal and basic essentials. If you wish to spend the night in the tent then there are several spots just below the summit.

Direction to Gunung Lawu:

Trekking @ Indonesian Volcano Adventures

The island of Java by our calculation is home to 13 volcanic peaks that are over 3000 meter high, and it was our early aim to be as quickly as possible on top of each of these gigantic volcanoes. If it was just the scenic beauty and the general appearance or the friendliness of the people, then Gunung Ciremai would be long forgotten in our memories. Yes the climb is hard, tiring and strenuous, but the views from the summit are kind of limited. Yes the crater is appealing but not spectacular, and our experience with the locals was very different than in most other parts of Indonesia where the friendliness and the warmth of the people is most memorable. However there is one specific memory we took home from this mountain that will stay with us deeply forever. Trees and bushes that were decorated with yellow liquid filled plastic bottles and plastic bags.  Gunung Ciremai really taught me a very important lesson for all my future climbs. It is essential before the adventure to find out how to get to the mountain, from where to climb and what else might be of importance to consider. To really get to enjoy each and every mountain it is well worth looking a little into the mythological aspect of these volcanoes. For centuries most of these prominent volcanoes played and still play a most important aspect in the spiritual every day lives. This brings me back to the plastic bottles and bags that we will explain at the end of this report. Then if I ever return to Gunung Ciremai then it will be definitely for the simple reason that I know now what those bottles and bags contain. Trekking @ Gunung Ciremai West Jawa

Majalenka – Desa Maja, 25 km:

After the provincial town of Majalenka the road slowly starts to climb towards Maja, which is a very scenic and very beautiful drive. In the lower areas you drive passed beautiful terraced rice fields and then in the higher regions you cross miles of vegetable plantations. During the good one-hour drive Gunung Ciremai acts as a wonderful backdrop. Hiking @ Gunung Ciremai West Java

Desa Maja 1200 m, and our three lovely guides:

Set in the middle of thousands of hectares of vegetable plantations. All vegetables from the surrounding areas are here collected, re-packed and loaded on to trucks for transport into the villages and cities surrounding the mountain. Despite the fact that we climbed during Ramadan it took us less than a ½ hour to organize our guides. Well it took perhaps two minutes and the rest of the time we had to listen to all these horrendous stories about the many dangerous beasts living in the woods up on the hill. Tigers were feared and our Chief guide showed us rather large scars that were caused by the attack of a wild boar. Then for the fact that it was Ramadan and people are fasting we were “ordered” to climb with three guides in order to lessen the burden each one had to carry. Obviously we have gone through this type of stories countless times and knew that the only reason for it was to get a higher price per porter. Do not expect the strongest porters. Trekking @ Gunung Ciremai

The ascent through the  vegetable plantations:

The first hour of the climb is rather steep and leads through more beautiful vegetable fields. Well this section will take roughly an hour, but in our case it took a lot longer for the simply fact that once the last roof of the last house of the village was behind us our porters needed to stop for a rather lengthy smoke break. Then 10 minutes later when the last house was in the far distance the next break was essential for a large “Nasi Bungkus”, this despite the fact that we were told that all three porters were fasting. Hiking @ Gunung Ciremai

The forest:

The second hour is comfortably steep through very beautiful virgin forest seemingly untouched. Perhaps some of the prettiest we have seen anywhere. Again it was rather sad to see, or better to hear, that this forest just like so many other forests throughout Indonesia seem completely deserted from any type of life. We could hardly hear a bird and remembered the myth about tigers, wild boars and many other wild beasts. Rather scary. Trekking @ Gunung Ciremai West Java

Dense Forest with lots of steep steps:

The next two hours are without doubt the hardest two hours of the entire climb offering a tremendous work out. Lots of roots, steep steps and many other obstacles will seriously challenge your physical endurance and abilities. Then about half way up this section, around the 2000 meter altitude, we started to notice many 1 ½ liter water bottles that were half filled with a yellowish fluid. Our first thought was that due to the fact that there is no water source on the mountain these bottles would serve the thirsty hiker in need of an emergency drink. Beside these bottles we found frequently small black and white plastic bags hanging from different bushes and the branches from trees. With our open creative imagination we figured out that these bags would contain some emergency refreshments…… Obviously with every step higher the forest gradually started to get thinner and gave way to scrub and bushes that stayed with us all the way to the summit. The going was slow but our spirits were motivated due to the fact that the weather was great and the prospects for a great sunset were positive. Hiking @ Gunung Ciremai

The ridge:

At around 2500 meters you will leave the forest behind you and the trek continues on the ridge with deep ravines on both sides. The views are stunning and within 45 minutes you will reach Goa wallet the overnight camp. With no porters in sight for perhaps a few hours we decided to continue our journey to the summit, which was only a further 35 minutes away. Obviously at this altitude and with a lack of oxygen the going gets slow and even a short distance seems to stretch forever. The trek here is mostly on volcanic loose stones and rocks, which needs a little extra care. We reached the crater rim around 3 in the afternoon, which gave us a fantastic hour basking in the warm afternoon sun, enjoying the interesting mountaintop as well as extensive views of the villages surrounding the volcano in the far distance. Eventually it was time to return back to Goa Wallet to set up camp and get ready for yet another long and restless night. Timing this time was perfect. The same moment we arrived at the camp, the first of our three porters arrived rather exhausted. He brought with him a rather important message and explained to us the reason for the many bottles and plastic bags that are hang on to the many bushes and trees further down. Well this ended our belief in a free munch on the way down. As with any other campsite in this altitude we often find it rather difficult to get a good night sleep. Despite the fact that your exhausted bodies want to sleep, the quick gain in altitude, a lack of oxygen and a different air pressure does not give the system enough time to adjust. We always bring a stack of playing cards that keeps us well entertained well into the night. Hiking @ Gunung Ciremai West Java

The summit 3078 meters:

Our alarm clocks that really were not needed were set for 4 am which gave us plenty of time for a quick coffee and break down of the camp. Then at around 4.45 we were on our way to the summit for an almost picture perfect sunrise. As we were enjoying the moment again for conquering yet another volcano, our three rather inverted and not very out spoken guides made their early morning prayer which was pleasing to see. After 30 minutes of rest we slowly made our way along the western crater rim to the southern end.  That took a comfortable 30 minutes. In this area there are several spots offering plenty of space for several tents. However one should take care to camp here as this spot is rather exposed to the elements. Trekking @ Gunung Ciremai

The descent to Linggarjati:

The first hour of the descent is steep, rough, dusty, slippery uncomfortable, slow going and rather littered with lots of debris left behind by previous hikers. This garbage is a harsh contradiction when you consider the content of the many water bottles and plastic bags that hang from the many trees, bushes and branches. The trek then remains steep but gets slightly better at around 2600 meters when you slowly get back in the forest. However through out the forest there are countless complicated, tricky root sections where one needs to scramble down often several meters almost vertical. These sections are best mastered in “ 4 wheel mode” or better on your backside. Please keep in mind that there is no water supply on the entire mountain, therefore it is wise to drink smartly, especially on this side of the mountain, which is exposed to direct sun light. It was then a great relief when we reached after about 2 ½ hours a small hut that was stocked with lots of very sweet soft drinks and some simple snacks, and of course lots of water. After this welcome stop the trek is no longer that steep, but remains very dusty and dry. Then after a further 30 minutes you will leave the forest behind you and gradually make your way into Linggerjati. Trekking @ Gunung Ciremai

Our friendly guides:

This must have been the only time on any mountain throughout Indonesia that we where not able to become friends with our porters. We never have come across more reserved individuals then on Gunung Ciremai. We did not seem to be able to make any conversation and found it difficult to get some information about the local culture, spirits and mythology surrounding the mountain. The only time they actually approached us, was when we reached the center of Linggerjati and English was no longer a challenge. Hey Mister, Money……. We paid as per our negotiation the previous day, handed over the money which they counted again, distributed the funds among three and were on their way. No thank you, no nothing, just crossed the street and left…..Hiking @ Gunung Ciremai

Mythology, bottles and plastic bags:

The region around Gunung Ciremai including the costal city of Cirebon is one of Java’s most densely populated areas, and early historical finds date back thousands of years. Local stories will tell you that the origin of the people in West Java come from the foot hills of Gunung Ciremai. As such it is still today common practice to worship ancestors and ask for blessing of the soil, fertility, prosperity and welfare. Legend has it that Maman the caretaker of Gunung Cirmai requires special prayers if you want to survive a safe journey to and from the mountain. There are several posts along the route and it is required that at each post a short prayer is done.  Kneel down and say Assalamualikum three times and each time touch the ground. This will guarantee a safe adventure. Beside these short prayers certain abstinence is asked from the traveler. You are not allowed to think or talk bad on the mountain, and foremost Maman will not allow you to follow the call of nature, which explains what the many plastic bottles and plastic bags contain that hang from the trees, bushes and branches. I just wonder what everyone has done prior to the discovery of plastic………. Then again it is ok to litter the mountain with plastic wrappers and trash. Trekking @ Gunung Ciremai

Summery Gunung Ciremai:

• Elevation: 3078
• Coordinates: 
• Summit: -6.896093, 108.411627
• Maja: -6.903421, 108.351717
• Linggarjati:-6.878966, 108.472438
• Location:   West Java 100 km north east of Bandung
• Difficult Grade V3 Advanced
• Physical Challenge V3 Advanced
• Hiking time: 5 hours up and 4 hours down
• Water source:  Non- 4 liter recommended
• Guide: Not essential, but makes the journey more comfortable
• Permit: Registration essential in Desa Maja
• Transport: 
• From Cirebon in West Java it is a good 50 km to Majalenka:  Cirebon-Plumbon-Klangenan-Cipanas-Rajagaluh-Sukuhaji-Majalengka
• From Bandung in West Java it roughly 100 km to Majalengka: Bandung-Rancaekek-Tanjungsari-Sumedang-Cimalaka-Tomo-Majalengka
• Accommodation: Plenty available in Majalengka

Direction to Gunung Ciremai: