Ancient tales

When looking at the history of Gunung Lawu one cannot ignore the story about the three summits, Hargo Dumilah, Hargo Dalem and Hargo Dumling. Each has its own legend and mystery. The story began during the government of Sinuwun Nata Bhrawijaya Pamungkas at Majapahit Kingdom. At that time, the King’s wife, Dara Petak gave birth to a son, Raden Fatah.

Unlike his father Raden Fatah chose to convert to Islam as he grew up. He then established a Kingdom in Glagah Wangi (Demark). This caused great grief to his father, who then turned to meditation in search for guidance from God. His newly found understanding and perception showed that the glow of the Majapahit Kingdom would fade away and the divine revelation would shift to the Demak Kingdom.

The King then left the Kingdom and fled to Gunung Lawu escorted by Sabdopalon. On their journey to the summit they met Dipa and Wangsa Menggala, two village heads that escorted the King to Hargo Dalem the summit. Before retreating at Hargo Dalem the King designated Dipa Menggala as the ruler Gunung Lawu and to be in charge of the invisible of the area. The King also appointed Wangsa Menggala as the vice regent and honored him with the title of Kyai Jalak.

Due to their loyalty and perfection of supernatural power, Dipa and Wangsa Menggala turned into mystical creatures to carry out the King’s mandate. Thus until today Gunung Lawu is still closely related to the cultural tradition of the Yogyakarta and Surakarta Palace.

The Massive Gunung Lawu, lying on the border between Central and East Java and is one of Java’s holiest mountains. Mysterious Hindu Temples dot its slopes and because of the colorful past, each year thousand’s of pilgrims seek spiritual enlightenment by climbing its peak. The unique temples on the mountain are actually the last ones that were built in Java before the region converted to Islam. The most famous ones are Candi Sukuh and Candi Ceto.

A climb filled with lots of little bonuses

Due to the colorful history of Gunung Lawu and the fact that annually thousands of pilgrims make their way to the summit it is no surprise that the trek is by far the best maintained path to any summit in Indonesia that is over 3000 meters.  A further bonus is the fact that the starting point is at an altitude at 1800 meters, meaning that the actual climb covers “only “ about 1400 meters altitude. Comfortable accommodation only 150 meters below the summit, giving you a chance to forget your tent at home.

To our greatest astonishment our host for the night not only cooked a delicious hot dinner but also stocked a little store with all the essentials for the hungry adventurer. But what makes Gunung Lawu special are the views, which are thoroughly stunning. It is actually very easily possible to climb this mountain in one relatively long 8-9 hour hiking day. However I strongly suggest spending the night near the summit in one of the hostels. Depart during the later part of the morning and reach the summit around 4.  This will give you a terrific chance to marvel at a hopefully spectacular sunset, and then an even more beautiful sunrise the next morning.

A walk in the park

The adventure starts in Cemoro Sewu where at the beginning of the trek one has to register and pay a small entrance fee. Bring along copies of your ID or Pass Port. An additional packet of clove cigarettes is always most welcomed by the caretakers and will greatly speed up the administrative component, which often can be rather time consuming and frustrating.

The entire path to the summit is rather straightforward without offering any specific challenges. The scenery is great and the mountain constantly rewards you with a magnificent landscape. There are 4 pos (rest points) along the route and it will take approximately one hour to reach each of the points. The lower sections will cross some vegetable plantations followed by a forested section and as you get higher the trees will give way to high alpine bush land.

Starting point Cemoro Sewu 1800 m

Pos 1:  Taman Sari Bawah, Wesen-wesen 2203 m

Pos 2: Taman Sari Atas, Watu Gedeg 2589 m

Pos 3:  Sendang Panguripan, Watu Gede 2787 m

Pos 4: Cokro Srengenge, Watu Kapur 3099 m

Overnight camp:  Jolo Tundo  3177 m

Argodumilah: Summit 3265 m

Argodalam:  Second lower summit 3170 m

The descent

The easiest way back is obviously to take the same path as you come up. However there is actually a rather seldom taken second bath which is a little longer but will end up at the same starting point. It is best to ask for directions at the summit, which the locals will happily give you. Another smart alternative would be to ask a local to guide you for the first ½ hour until you reach the defined trail which is in good condition and can be easily followed. If the weather is clear you will get some fabulous views of Gunung Merapi on the far horizon.

Summery Gunung Lawu

Elevation: 3065 meters

Coordinates: 

Gunung Lawu summit                                -7.627162, 111.194344

Cemoro Kandang, starting point             -7.627162, 111.18782

Location: 110 km northeast from Yogyakarta on the border between central and east. The journey will take roughly 3-4 hours on a public bus

Difficult Grade V2: Moderate: No major obstacles along the entire trek. Keep sudden weather changes in mind and bring a good raincoat and some warm clothing. The morning on the summit can be very windy and very cold.

Physical Challenge V2: Moderate:  Straight forward if you are in reasonable good condition. From all the tall volcanoes in Java, Gunung Lawu is perhaps the easiest one to climb.

Hiking time:            4 ½ hours up and 4 hours down

Water source: 2½ liters is sufficient for the climb. Water available just below the summit in one of the Warungs.

Guide: Not essential

Permit: Registration essential at park entrance in Cemoro Kendang US$0.50

Transport: Yogyakarta-Depok–Prambanan-Ceper-Solo-Mojolaban-Karanganyar- Tawangmangu-Cemoro Kandang. Plenty of public busses available.

Accommodation: There are serviced shelters on the summit, which provide a cooked meal and basic essentials. If you wish to spend the night in the tent then there are several spots just below the summit.

Direction to Gunung Lawu

Summery Gunung Ciremai

Elevation: 3078

Coordinates: 

Summit: -6.896093, 108.411627

Maja: -6.903421, 108.351717

Linggarjati:-6.878966, 108.472438

Location:   West Java 100 km north east of Bandung

Difficult Grade V3 Advanced

Physical Challenge V3 Advanced

Hiking time: 5 hours up and 4 hours down

Water source:  Non- 4 liter recommended

Guide: Not essential, but makes the journey more comfortable

Permit: Registration essential in Desa Maja

Transport:  

From Cirebon in West Java it is a good 50 km to Majalenka:  Cirebon-Plumbon-Klangenan-Cipanas-Rajagaluh-Sukuhaji-Majalengka

From Bandung in West Java it roughly 100 km to Majalengka: Bandung-Rancaekek-Tanjungsari-Sumedang-Cimalaka-Tomo-Majalengka

Accommodation: Plenty available in Majalengka

Direction to Gunung Ciremai

Majalenka – Desa Maja, 25 km

After the provincial town of Majalenka the road slowly starts to climb towards Maja, which is a very scenic and very beautiful drive. In the lower areas you drive passed beautiful terraced rice fields and then in the higher regions you cross miles of vegetable plantations. During the good one-hour drive Gunung Ciremai acts as a wonderful backdrop.

Desa Maja 1200 m, and our three lovely guides

Set in the middle of thousands of hectares of vegetable plantations. All vegetables from the surrounding areas are here collected, re-packed and loaded on to trucks for transport into the villages and cities surrounding the mountain. Despite the fact that we climbed during Ramadan it took us less than a ½ hour to organize our guides. Well it took perhaps two minutes and the rest of the time we had to listen to all these horrendous stories about the many dangerous beasts living in the woods up on the hill. Tigers were feared and our Chief guide showed us rather large scars that were caused by the attack of a wild boar. Then for the fact that it was Ramadan and people are fasting we were “ordered” to climb with three guides in order to lessen the burden each one had to carry. Obviously we have gone through this type of stories countless times and knew that the only reason for it was to get a higher price per porter. Do not expect the strongest porters.

The ascent through the  vegetable plantations

The first hour of the climb is rather steep and leads through more beautiful vegetable fields. Well this section will take roughly an hour, but in our case it took a lot longer for the simply fact that once the last roof of the last house of the village was behind us our porters needed to stop for a rather lengthy smoke break. Then 10 minutes later when the last house was in the far distance the next break was essential for a large “Nasi Bungkus”, this despite the fact that we were told that all three porters were fasting.

The forest

The second hour is comfortably steep through very beautiful virgin forest seemingly untouched. Perhaps some of the prettiest we have seen anywhere. Again it was rather sad to see, or better to hear, that this forest just like so many other forests throughout Indonesia seem completely deserted from any type of life. We could hardly hear a bird and remembered the myth about tigers, wild boars and many other wild beasts. Rather scary.

Dense Forest with lots of steep steps

The next two hours are without doubt the hardest two hours of the entire climb offering a tremendous work out. Lots of roots, steep steps and many other obstacles will seriously challenge your physical endurance and abilities. Then about half way up this section, around the 2000 meter altitude, we started to notice many 1 ½ liter water bottles that were half filled with a yellowish fluid. Our first thought was that due to the fact that there is no water source on the mountain these bottles would serve the thirsty hiker in need of an emergency drink. Beside these bottles we found frequently small black and white plastic bags hanging from different bushes and the branches from trees. With our open creative imagination we figured out that these bags would contain some emergency refreshments…… Obviously with every step higher the forest gradually started to get thinner and gave way to scrub and bushes that stayed with us all the way to the summit. The going was slow but our spirits were motivated due to the fact that the weather was great and the prospects for a great sunset were positive.

The ridge

At around 2500 meters you will leave the forest behind you and the trek continues on the ridge with deep ravines on both sides. The views are stunning and within 45 minutes you will reach Goa wallet the overnight camp. With no porters in sight for perhaps a few hours we decided to continue our journey to the summit, which was only a further 35 minutes away. Obviously at this altitude and with a lack of oxygen the going gets slow and even a short distance seems to stretch forever. The trek here is mostly on volcanic loose stones and rocks, which needs a little extra care. We reached the crater rim around 3 in the afternoon, which gave us a fantastic hour basking in the warm afternoon sun, enjoying the interesting mountaintop as well as extensive views of the villages surrounding the volcano in the far distance. Eventually it was time to return back to Goa Wallet to set up camp and get ready for yet another long and restless night. Timing this time was perfect. The same moment we arrived at the camp, the first of our three porters arrived rather exhausted. He brought with him a rather important message and explained to us the reason for the many bottles and plastic bags that are hang on to the many bushes and trees further down. Well this ended our belief in a free munch on the way down. As with any other campsite in this altitude we often find it rather difficult to get a good night sleep. Despite the fact that your exhausted bodies want to sleep, the quick gain in altitude, a lack of oxygen and a different air pressure does not give the system enough time to adjust. We always bring a stack of playing cards that keeps us well entertained well into the night.

The summit 3078 meters

Our alarm clocks that really were not needed were set for 4 am which gave us plenty of time for a quick coffee and break down of the camp. Then at around 4.45 we were on our way to the summit for an almost picture perfect sunrise. As we were enjoying the moment again for conquering yet another volcano, our three rather inverted and not very out spoken guides made their early morning prayer which was pleasing to see. After 30 minutes of rest we slowly made our way along the western crater rim to the southern end.  That took a comfortable 30 minutes. In this area there are several spots offering plenty of space for several tents. However one should take care to camp here as this spot is rather exposed to the elements.

The descent to Linggarjati

The first hour of the descent is steep, rough, dusty, slippery uncomfortable, slow going and rather littered with lots of debris left behind by previous hikers. This garbage is a harsh contradiction when you consider the content of the many water bottles and plastic bags that hang from the many trees, bushes and branches. The trek then remains steep but gets slightly better at around 2600 meters when you slowly get back in the forest. However through out the forest there are countless complicated, tricky root sections where one needs to scramble down often several meters almost vertical. These sections are best mastered in “ 4 wheel mode” or better on your backside. Please keep in mind that there is no water supply on the entire mountain, therefore it is wise to drink smartly, especially on this side of the mountain, which is exposed to direct sun light. It was then a great relief when we reached after about 2 ½ hours a small hut that was stocked with lots of very sweet soft drinks and some simple snacks, and of course lots of water. After this welcome stop the trek is no longer that steep, but remains very dusty and dry. Then after a further 30 minutes you will leave the forest behind you and gradually make your way into Linggerjati.

Our friendly guide

This must have been the only time on any mountain throughout Indonesia that we where not able to become friends with our porters. We never have come across more reserved individuals then on Gunung Ciremai. We did not seem to be able to make any conversation and found it difficult to get some information about the local culture, spirits and mythology surrounding the mountain. The only time they actually approached us, was when we reached the center of Linggerjati and English was no longer a challenge. Hey Mister, Money……. We paid as per our negotiation the previous day, handed over the money which they counted again, distributed the funds among three and were on their way. No thank you, no nothing, just crossed the street and left…..

Mythology, bottles and plastic bags

The region around Gunung Ciremai including the costal city of Cirebon is one of Java’s most densely populated areas, and early historical finds date back thousands of years. Local stories will tell you that the origin of the people in West Java come from the foot hills of Gunung Ciremai. As such it is still today common practice to worship ancestors and ask for blessing of the soil, fertility, prosperity and welfare. Legend has it that Maman the caretaker of Gunung Cirmai requires special prayers if you want to survive a safe journey to and from the mountain. There are several posts along the route and it is required that at each post a short prayer is done.  Kneel down and say Assalamualikum three times and each time touch the ground. This will guarantee a safe adventure. Beside these short prayers certain abstinence is asked from the traveler. You are not allowed to think or talk bad on the mountain, and foremost Maman will not allow you to follow the call of nature, which explains what the many plastic bottles and plastic bags contain that hang from the trees, bushes and branches. I just wonder what everyone has done prior to the discovery of plastic………. Then again it is ok to litter the mountain with plastic wrappers and trash

Gunung Ciremai is truly special

With so much mythology around two magnificent volcanoes one can only expect the very best from climbing these very picturesque twin mountains.

Summary Gunung Sindoro 3371

• Elevation: 3137 meters
• Kledung Pass:            1404 meters             -7.341015, 110.032368
• Summit:                        3371 meters              -7.300748, 109.99619
• Location:  Approximately 90 km West of Jogjakarta
• Difficult Grade V2:  The trail is rather steep but relatively straight forward.
• Physical Challenge V3: Good physical condition recommended. Previous hiking experience of assistance.
• Hiking time: 5 hours up and 4 hours down.
• Water source: Limited 4.5 liters recommended for round trip.
• Guide:  Not essential once you are on the main trek.
• Permits: Available in Kledung Pass
• Transport: Yogyakarta – Simen – Muntilan – Mungkid – Magelang – Secang – Kranggan – Bulu – Kledung. Plenty of public busses available.
• Accommodation: Plentiful available in Kledung

Direction to Gunung Sindoro

The ascent

Detailed trekking description and more photos will be added by late March

Summary Gunung Sumbing

• Elevation: 3371 meters
•  Kledung Pass: 1404 m,  -7.341015, 110.031509
• Summit: 3371 m,  -7.384939, 110.072408
• Location: Approximately 90 km West of Jogyakartaon:
• Difficult Grade V2:  The trail is rather steep but relatively straight forward.
• Physical Challenge V3: Physically rather demanding. Good fitness level required
• Hiking time: 5 hours up, and 4 hours down
• Water source: Limited, 4.5 liters recommended
• Guide:  Not essential once you are on the main trek.
• Permits: Available in Kledung Pass
• Transport: Yogyakarta – Simen – Muntilan – Mungkid – Magelang – Secang – Kranggan – Bulu – Kledung. Plenty of public busses available
• Accommodation:  Easy available in Kledung

Direction to Gunung Sumbing

The ascent

Detailed trekking description and more photos will be added by late March

Summery 

Elevation: 2656 meters

Location: West Java 100 km south of Bandung

Difficult Grade V3:  For the ascent, 4 for the descent, summit of Papandayan back to car park

Physical Challenge V3:

Hiking time:  5½ – 6 hours for round trip

Water source: Not recommended to drink the available water,  3 should be sufficient

Guide: Recommended but not essential

Permit: Registration essential at car park. Bring a copy of ID

Transport: Bandung – Garut by public buss, US$2.00 3 hours

Garut – Cisurupan by mini buss, US$0.50 1 hour

Cisurupan – Carpark Papandayan by Ojeg / Bike taxi, US$4.00, 45 minutes one-way

Accommodations: Plentiful available in Garut

Direction to Gunung Papandayan

 When we arrived at the car park it was actually our intention to reach the highest point in the Papandayan mountain range, which is actually a rather long way away from Gunung Papandayan, the point, which all locals consider as the actual summit. The biggest challenge of the entire trip was for Thomas my hiking partner to find a guide / farmer who was willing to join us in the quest to hack our way through dense jungle to the hopefully very highest point of the range. It took “only” about one hour of serious negotiation to confirm a helping hiking hand and before long we were ready to start our adventure one short hour before sun set.

Open crater area

Equipped with a GPS and a detailed Google earth map we felt confident that we would succeed in our quest to reach a rarely visited highest point in the Papandayan range. The solid rocky path slowly ascends towards the wide-open crater, which you will reach within 15 minutes. It is worthwhile to slow down in this area and enjoy the bubbling, steaming, screaming and howling volcano landscape. Most weekend visitors are happy to make their day to the top of the active area that will take an easy 30 minutes. This is also the border where vegetation and forest gradually takes over from the active volcano.

The cobble road

Once you reach edge of the active volcano area follow the path that will lead you around the mountainside towards a deteriorating cobbled track that at one stage was meant to be an actual road connecting villages that are separated by the mountain. The track was built during the rain of former President Suharto and then in 2002 partly destroyed by a huge landslide as major volcanic eruptions occurred. After a few hundred meters the road will make a relatively sharp left turn, but the path will lead you straight ahead down the mountainside into a valley. After about 300 meters you reach the bottom of the valley, where you cross a mountain stream. Just after the river crossing the trek ascends steeply up towards the left for yet another 400 meters where you join the vanished cobble road again. Turn to the right and stay on this rough rocky road for a little more than one kilometer, or until you reach the highest point. Here the street turns left and leads through a gap in the mountain. 75 meters further on you notice on the left an open area from where in the center a small trail leads into the woods. Follow this wide path that leads almost flat through the woods for a little more than one kilometer and ends at Pondok Selada, which translates as Salad plantations.

Pondok Salada 2332 m S7 18.918 E107 43.391

This has to be one of the very best campsites we have ever used. Wide open with space for a whole army, set on beautiful green, soft grass and for a change absolutely  spotlessly clean, just as the entire Papandayan range. Almost to the minute we arrived night took over from daylight and within a minute a thick blanket of fog set on us, which cleared to our delight around midnight. To our amusement we read several reports of wild animals in the area, pigs, dogs, and large cats of which we unfortunately could not see the faintest signs. I guess the fact that we were armed with two Swiss Army knifes would have scared off all these dangerous beasts.

Tegal Alun 2520 m

At 6 o’clock the next morning to our delight, we meet our guide, who brought with him a seriously  sharp bush knife. The good visible trail leads straight on towards an area with lots of dead trees that slowly died during the 2002 eruption. This is actually a fascinating and very picturesque area and well worth stopping frequently to take plenty of photos. Here the trail leads steeply up the mountainside and it will take a good 40 minutes to reach the next vast open grassy plateau. Tegal Alun. Unfortunately the moment we reach this wide-open grassy plateau, heavy fogs make us unable to actually see where we are. The only person happy about the fog was our guide as he was hoping that this sudden change of weather would cut his duty in half and with it he would be back home for lunch.

All of a sudden he was scared and seriously concerned that we would get lost, which is actually almost impossible as we found out later. A good GPS and a map had us quickly back on the right trek towards our well-anticipated summit. Before long the weather Gods were on our side, and in brilliant sunshine we stood a few hundred meters away from our two anticipated peaks. The question then was simply, which one is higher, the one on the left or the one on the right? Something we were not able to work out from our maps. The three of us decided that it was the one on the right and with it the real fun started.

Hacking towards the summit

The task was actually not too hard, as we only had to conquer a good 150 meters of altitude. Then for the fact that October marks the end of the dry season the very dense bushes, trees and scrubs were very dry and giving us not too much of a challenge to work our way up the steep hillside. Altogether it took less then 1-½ hours to reach the summit of a hilltop which has virtually never been visited before. Obviously it was our aim to reach the highest point of the Papandayan range, and to be certain that we really reached the highest point we needed to get back and make our way to yet another hill top located only a few hundred meters away. A hilltop that actually looked slightly higher then the one we conquered.

Tegal Alu to Gunung Papandayan

From the base of the mountain it took less then 20 minutes to trek back across the grass and Javanese Edelweiss plain to re join the easily visible path that lead us to the summit of Gunung Papandayan. Just as you reach the path you will notice some swampy areas where farmers from the valleys collect water and then pipe the wet gold a very long way down to irrigate their plantations. We would not recommend drinking this water as the little ponds were covered by a lot of algae’s and looked rather stale. Just after you pass this section the path gradually ascends towards the top of the range. This section will take a good hour and offers very few challenges. It is well worth stopping frequently as every corner seems to unveil  better views, especially of the active crater

fields. Half way up the trail your guide will point out several large boulders facing south where underneath a “super large” cave system starts, apparently well over 100 km long. Tales in the region tell of a high priest that actually entered the system and then shortly after walked out of the labyrinth near Pangandaran almost 100 km to the south east. Just imagine if this is a fact then this cave system would be among the largest in the world. We were also told, that from this point on clear days the South coast of Java can be seen. From here it will take less then half an hour to reach the modest summit, which has no views on offer at all. However if you follow the path for another 200 meters you will find a small opening in the woods, from where the scenery is simply breathtaking.

The Descent

Definitely the fastest way to get back to the car park where you began your escape the previous day, is by following the mountain ridge straight down, and down it goes. Steep and in many areas very steep making this particular section seriously dangerous when the grounds are wet. However when we descended it was dry and the trail actually offered plenty of good grip. The track leads down the densely forested hillside and as such the many bushes and small trees offer welcome support to ensure a safe down hill journey. Due to the steepness of the path it will take less then 1-½ hours to get back to the starting point, where you will find several small food stalls that offer some simple refreshment.

Some volcanic history

Gunung Papandayan is a complex strata volcano. At the summit, there are four large craters that contain active fumaroles fields. An eruption in 1772 caused the northeast flank to collapse producing a catastrophic debris avalanche that destroyed 40 villages and killed nearly 3,000 people. The eruption truncated the volcano into a broad shape with two peaks and a flat area 1.1 km wide with the Alun-Alun crater in the middle, making the mountain look like a twin volcano. One of the peaks is called Gunung Papandayan and the other Gunung Puntang.  Since 1772, only small phreatic eruptions were recorded before an explosive eruption began in November 2002 and lasted for almost one year. More recently, the volcano has been quite active. On 14 August 2011 the volcano warning status was lifted from Level II, “Vigilant” (Indonesian: Waspada) to Level III, “Alert” (Indonesian: Siaga) following the emission of dangerous hydrogen sulfide and carbon monoxide gases. People, including tourists, were urged to remain at least 2 kilometers from the yellow craters. On Friday, September 2, 2011, the Indonesian volcanology and Geophysical Disaster Mitigation Center reported that numerous shallow volcanic earthquakes had been recorded along with other indications of volcanic activity. A spokesperson for the Indonesian National Disaster Management Agency noted that if Gunung Papandayan erupted, over 170,000 people living in five nearby sub districts (kecamatan) and in 20 villages could be affected. Of the people likely to be affected, it was expected that perhaps as many as 11,500 people might need to be evacuated.

Due to bad traffic and serious other delays we only reached the TV towers which marked the starting point for our adventure around 8 pm. Despite this delayed arrival we decided to climb to the summit during the early night hours. Supported by an almost full moon and strong headlights we had little difficulty to find our way across the tea plantations and through the very healthy alpine forest. Before departure we trimmed our back bags to an absolute minimum and left these belongings for a small fee with one of the caretakers of the TV stations.

The ascent

In short it is easiest to divide the 3-½ hour climb into three sections.

Section 1:             Tea plantation roughly 30 minutes

Section 2:             Rather steep forest section 1½ hour

Section 3:             Slightly lesser steep upper section 1½ hour

Tea plantation 1546 m S7 18.275 E107 52.907

The trail starts at the last bend, 50 meters before you reach the TV station towers. From this turn the trail leads straight up the tea plantation where you will reach after 500 meters a V- junction where you have to follow the right path. This is actually the only one spot where you can get potentially lost in the hectares of steep tea fields. Further on after a comfortable 20 minutes you will reach the edge of the forest.

The forest 1744 m S7 18.591 E107 52.622

Once you head into the forest the trail gets very quickly steeper and steeper, where often-large roots will form rather big obstacles and at the same time assist with their countless smaller branches as additional hold when making your way up the hillside. You will make steady progress and before long the first rest point is reached.

Camp 1 1998 m

This small campground big enough for two tents is a good excuse for a quick break and a sip from the water bottle. Before long we headed further up the mountain where we were challenged by countless more roots and plenty of steep steps. None of them were too dramatic and did not cause too much of a challenge. The ground offers plenty of good grips that allow steady progress in the bright moonlight. You will reach the next rest point within 30 minutes.

Camp 2 2276 m

Set within healthy high altitude forest this small campsite offers space for two tents. Just as on so many other volcanoes throughout Indonesia we find it extremely disturbing to listen to the emptiness of this extremely remote forest. One would think that this is the perfect habitat for a vast variety of wild life. Unfortunately all has gone and the only wild inhabitants are these miserable wild pigs that the early European settlers introduced to this region. Indigenous birds, which used to inhabit this regions you find in cages throughout markets in the valleys below. By the time we reached this site it was well after 10 pm. and once we turned off our headlights the entire surrounding felt spooky with a quietness that was eerie and exceptionally memorable. This site also marked the half way point and the beginning of the final upper slightly flatter section.

Section 3

This final third of the hike will take a little more then one hour. With every step closer to the summit the winds finally started to pick up and with it creating a gentle howling in the trees that reminded me of the autumn storms in the Swiss mountains. This section offers very little challenges, beside the countless steps that are between 50 cm and 2 meter that can potentially cause falls if not careful. Here a good pair of hand gloves will protect your hands when holding on to tree stumps and bushes for additional hold. Within 45 minutes you will reach the final campsite.

Camp 3 2532 m

If you decide to spend the night on the exposed summit and the weather turns bad on you then this final camp offers the perfect alternative. The healthy forest with its tall trees will protect you from the torrential winds and can be a shelter during frequent heavy rainfalls. From here to the summit it is a steady comfortable climb without too many obstacles.

Summit 2840 m

Views in every direction are simply breathtaking with Gunung Guntur in the North, the large mountain range of Telaga Bodas in the East, and Papandayan to the West. The sunrise was picture perfect, and with the slowly rising sun, the temperature rose quickly making the early morning hours most enjoyable. There is actually a concrete shelter that offers room for four to sleep, provided one decides to clean up the “disgusting” garbage that was left behind by previous hikers.

Not only the shelter is filthy dirty, but also the entire summit is littered in a rather sad way. How easy is it to bring back your left over’s, something we wish everybody would do. I always remember a sign I have read once on one of the summits.  The only thing to leave behind on the mountain should be your footprint. Makes a lot of sense. There are several possible campsites surrounding the summit that offer altogether enough room for up to 15 tents. Please keep in mind when selecting the day of your adventure, that weekends can be rather crowded as Gunung Cikuray is very popular among students from Bandung and Jakarta.

Summary

Elevation: 2840 meters

Coordinates: S7 19.356 E107 51.591

Location: West Java 100 km south of Bandung

Difficult Grade: 2. The trail is rather steep and lots of large steps offer some challenge. Hold on to tree stumps and bushes and you will be very safe.

Physical Challenge: 3

Hiking time: 7 hours for round trip

Water source: None. 3 liters recommended

Guide:  Not essential

Permit: Registration not essential. Bring copy of ID

Transport: Bandung – Garut by public bus, US$2.00 3 hours

Garut – Cilawu by mini bus, US$0.50 1 hour

Cilawu – TV Towers by Ojeg / Bike, US$4.00 1 hour one-way

Accommodation: Plentiful available in Garut

Location Map

Three very special elements make Gunung Beuticanar a must destination for anyone interested in discovering a very rarely visited and isolated part of West Java. The trip begins with an extraordinary bike ride on horrible roads passed an amazing farmed landscape through a small village and then into a very beautiful volcanic forest. The turquoise blue crater lake with the hot spring works better than medicine on your tired body before and after the mountain adventure. Then there is the hike itself that will take a comfortable five hours across a very healthy forest, within a magical landscape.

Hard work on two wheels

This time the adventure does not begin on the mountain, but well before in the village of Wanaraja. The fastest but definitely not the safest way to reach the scenic crater of Lake Telaga Bodas is on the back of an “Ojeg” motorbike taxi. What makes this section so special is the quickly deteriorating road or what ever is left from this ancient structure. For the next 12 km it is hard work to stay balanced on the back of the bike. A big back pack over the handle bar, then a Valantino Rossi like driver with you on the back loaded with another bag hanging over the end. The road is bad and gets worse quickly. At the beginning there is actually still some tar visible, which gives way with every meter to the very rocky and broken up foundation. An additional challenge is where the missing foot rests on the vintage bike which requires balancing on the saddle just like you would on a wild horse. 12 km will take a good 30 to 45 minutes of super hard work.

Panyaningkiran

It is a shame that one is too busy balancing on the howling scooter with cut off exhaust, as the scenery is simply stunning. October marks the end of the dry season and as such all farmers were busy getting ready for the hopefully soon approaching wet. This is also an area where large amounts of clay bricks are molded, then carefully piled meters high, before being burned for a week using rice husks and saw dust. It is well worth stopping every now and then and enjoying the magnificent surroundings. As you reach the village of   Panyaningkiran the street gets very steep and is in reasonable good condition. This however changes immediately as you get out of town.

The surface you ride on can no longer be considered as passable on a wheeled vehicle. The next 4 km are on steep farm tracks, which are dry, and mostly very rocky, which require an exceptionally skillful driver as well as a bike, that can take a serious beating. Eventually the wide “road” is reached to Telaga Bogas the azure blue Crater Lake. Well,  “road” is totally misleading as you travel on the foundation of the quickly breaking up track. Rocky river bed would more appropriate. This is definitely four wheel drive country as you should definitely not attempt this section in a normal car. Here vegetable farming gives way to ancient forest, and this in a very beautiful mountainous volcanic landscape. Before long you will be at the entrance gate to the Crater Lake where it is well worth stopping for a while and getting some valuable advice from the lake caretaker. He actually showed us later the junction where the track leads up into the woods up the mountain. His wife cooked a simple soup and brewed a strong coffee as refreshment.

The Lake 1753 m S7 12.776 E108 03.848

Definitely a place where you want to spend a little time and rest, and refresh your tired body before and after your excursion. At the far end you will find two small pools filled with hot and very hot spring water. One is a little cooler and the lower one is actually too warm, if you bade around lunchtime. Then It would be absolutely perfect if after your hot dip, you could cool off in an iced bathe, just like you do after a sauna.  We really enjoyed our dip into this hot brew, pool, hot plunge, in the later afternoon. Then after we were almost poached well done, we were able to cool off in the cooler late afternoon mountain air. Most visitors (locals), especially on week ends, stroll around the lake side and will be overjoyed when they get a chance to look at white western visitor in his underwear…….. “Hello Mister…… Where you from….. Suda lamah di Indonesia…….”

The ascent 2 ½ – 3 hours

Please note that previous hikers actually marked the path to the summit with blue and yellow ribbons that are often very difficult to spot. The hike starts at the gate to the lake with an easy 5-minute walk to the right around the lake. After a good 500 meters you will reach again on the right a white rocky area, where on the top a small campsite offers enough space for about five tents. Just before you reach the white rock face the path turns relatively steeply up on the right edge of the rock face. After about 50 meters you will reach a substantially wider path, which you will need to follow for a good 300 meters.

Just before you reach a slight right turn a small track leads steeply up the border into the forest. This is really the only critical section where you can miss the path. Once on route then the track gradually ascends through the forest and within 25-30 minutes you will gain just over 100 meters altitude and reach Kawah Saat.

Kawah Saat 1839 m S7 13.062 E108 03.703

This is an open flat plateau with sandy patches, grassy open areas, plenty of small bushes, and at the far end, burned tree stumps and several active and often very smelly sulphur vents. This is the perfect place to set up camp for the night as long as you stay well away from the poisonous fumes.

Simply follow the path across the plateau for about 250 meters to the far end passed the sulpher vents where the clearly visible path heads back into the forest. Follow the flat track through the forest for around 300 m until you reach an opening where you will notice a white open rock face on the right. Meters before you reach the rock face you will cross a small creek which in our case was virtually dry.

Just after the creek about in the middle of the rock face the path heads to the right relatively steeply into the forest. This was actually the only section where we missed the path and consequently we needed to back track. From here onwards it is relatively easy to stay on this seldom used path. You will make steady progress up the side of the mountain towards the saddle of the range.

2095 m, 50 very difficult meters S7 13.615 E108 03.709

Here suddenly it gets steep, very steep, a section that requires additional concentration and extra care needs to be taken to secure each step. Especially on wet grounds, this section can be rather dangerous where a  slip and a fall can cause serious injuries. With a little extra care you will reach quickly the actual ridge of the range. Here you need to turn slightly to the left, south, and now follow the clearly visible track for just about one hour through very beautiful forests to the summit of Gunung. Unfortunately the dense forest will not allow spectacular views along your adventure.

The summit 2258 S7 14.071 E108 04.108

The flat summit actually would make a terrific campsite if you decide to spend the night in a very beautiful surrounding. There is enough space for three tents, which you can set up around a small fireplace. Even up here the views were rather limited and we made an extra effort to cut down lots of the foliage in order to get a glimpse of the surrounding ranges and Gunung Cikuray in the distance. Looking at the shots makes me proud to state that we did a rather good job.

Summery Gunung Beuticanar

Elevation: 2258m

Coordinates: S7 14.071 E108 04.108

Location: North Java 100 km south of Bandung

Difficult Grade: 2, except one section which covers 50 altitude and can be very difficult to climb in wet conditions

Physical Challenge: 2 Straight forward if you are in reasonable good condition

Hiking time: 5 hours for round trip

Water source: Non-during dry season. 2-½ liter recommended

Guide: Not essential

Permit: Registration essential at entrance US$0.50

Transport: Bandung – Garut by public bus, US$2.00 3 hours

Garut– anaraja by mini buss, US$0.50 1 hour

Wanaraja-Telaga Bodas, Lake by Ojeg / Bike, US$4.00 1½ hour

Accommodation: Plentiful available in Garut

Location Map

Setting

Kerinci-Seblat National park which covers an amazing 1.5 million hectares stretch of jungle and mountains. The stunning valley is tucked away high in the Bukit Barisan on Jambies Western border. It is believed that the very dense rainforest and its inaccessibility is the very reason it is one of the last stronghold of seriously endangered species such as Sumatran tigers, and rhinoceros.   The region is  dominated by the dormant volcanic cone of Gunung Kerinci that rises 3805 meters from the highland.  The region is a major vegetable-growing area including hundreds of hectares of tea plantations. Much of the wealth in the valley comes  from cinnamon plantations, which supply almost 40% of the world market.  Dotting the valley are about 200 villages, the majority being unmistakable Minangkabau. All the villages are in the Jambi province, except the peak of Gunung Kerinci which is in West Sumatra. Located on an altitude of well over 1000 meters the region offers a year round pleasant climate. Because of the great range of elevation within the park, Kerinci has an unique diversity of flora and fauna. Then the fact that Gunung Kerinci is Indonesia’s highest volcano makes him a must climb mountain in any Indonesian’s mountaineers agenda. Definitely not the most spectacular and hardest volcano to climb but definitely a worthwhile challenge.

The journey from Padang

Most hikers will start their journey in the  provincial capital of West Sumatra, Padang and arrive at Bandara Internasional Minangkabau airport. Populated by close to one million inhabitants the city is a thriving commercial and cultural center. It is home to the largest seaport on the west cost, Teluk Bayar. The harbor come into existence after the discovery of gold in the highland,  to accommodate the lucrative pepper trade. Padang is also the  birth place for Indonesia’s imperial cuisine of the same name. There is definitely not one single town in the whole of Indonesia which is not home of at least one Padang restaurant advertising there selection in neatly displayed dishes in their shop window. It was on this journey that we discovered the very best of this famed cuisine. If you have not already organized your six to eight hour journey to the mountain village of Kersik Tua then you will definitely find a suitable van at the airport. Be prepared to negotiate for some time and then pay somewhere in the range of US$120 for this extremely scenic journey through the fertile highlands. A cheaper way would be by public bus, but this will become an endless tiring journey taking at least double the time.

For the long 8 hour journey bring plenty of water and lots to read for the tiresome slow trip. Having traveled in the northern part of Sumatra, through the Aceh province we expected similar outrageous road condition. To our greatest surprise the roads were in fantastic conditions with the exceptional hole every now and then. Unfortunately the same could not be sad about the traffic which for the first two hours was extremely slow and often very frustrating.  Departing from the airport the road crosses Padang and then winds up  the hilly hinterland. During the first two hours we barely covered 20 km as on the hilly slops we stuck in a massive traffic jam that was caused by resent land slides. Something that occurs  often in the region, especially during the wet season. Once the first hill tops are reached the road quickly flattens and the going gets a lot more comfortable passed absolute magnificent mountain scenery.Endless  plantations, producing some of the world’s finest tea. This  together with towering volcanoes in the back ground make this one of the most scenic drives in the whole of Indonesia. The twisting and turning  road will lead you passed countless provincial villages, through deep valleys, that are divided by fast flowing mountain streams, several lakes  and a horizon that is doted by countless volcanoes. Lower regions produce large amounts of rice and as you get closer and above 1000 meter over sea level thousand of hectare of tea offer a meager earning to the very happy and friendly locals. Within the last 30 km you will  spot large forests of cinnamon trees that are processed on the side of the road. The region is a major vegetable growing area producing some of the finest potatoes in the country.

The village of Kresik Tua, 1519 m

If you spend one night at the first or second base camp then there is really no need to depart too early in the morning. After a hearty breakfast of toast and jam that was accompanied by a glass of delicious Sumatran Robust coffee we first wandered for an hour through the back paths of the village and with it witnessed many of the early morning activities. Obviously I was hoping to find Gunung Kerinci in some spectacular early morning sunlight to capture many stunning images from this great mountain. Unfortunately as it is relatively normal in this part of the country the sky was grey, indicating that we can expect  tropical down pours along the way. If you rather sit back and witness how the day goes passed you, then bring your coffee on the front bench of the home stay and observe  how the village gradually wakes up and becomes very busy. The school kids on motor bikes with modified  exhaust pipes sounding like  jets that take off to the moon. Witness how  the farmers on carriages that are pulled by large bulls make their  way to the tea and vegetable  plantations. Or an endless amount of small public busses connect one village with the other.

Subandi Home stay, 

Kaya Aro Kerisi Jambi, Tele: 0748 700935, HP: 081 274 11 42 73

Without question this was one of the best home stays in the whole of Indonesia we stayed in. Your host Pak Subandi is exceptionally knowledgeable about every aspect of the region including farming, hiking, and of course every myth about Gunung Kerinci. Supported by his charming wife who prepared many delicious simple meals  including various meal boxes for our upcoming adventure. I think everybody staying in Subandis Homestay will remember their delicious “Bergedel Kentan” Potato burgers. Pak Subandi will also organize the permits that are  required to enter and climb the Gunung Rinjani National park. Permits cost around US$2.50

Guide

Abdulah Rapani,Desa Pelompek RT 03 RW2

Kec. Gunung Tujuh, Kerinci, (Jambi)

Hp: 0852 66 099 687

E-mail: abd.rapani5@gmail

Website: www.circle.kerincitour.com

Sometimes luck can really be on your side, and just as with our terrific rooms we were extremely fortunate to be escorted by 31 year old and super strong Pak Rapani our guide who was probably  the finest  volcano guide we ever experienced on any of our many journeys in Indonesia. His fine personality and character made us so very much welcomed and nothing every seemed too much for him to assist. This must have been the first time that we witnessed guides who did not smoked. This together with the fact that he spoke relatively good English makes him a person who we can highly recommend to anyone wishing to climb Indonesia’s highest volcano. To our greatest surprise they also provide us with delicious meal boxes.

The hike to Indonesia’s highest volcano 

Please do bring along  very good protective water proof clothing, which can save your life when getting into a tropical storm at higher elevations. Something that is to be expected throughout the year. Turn off the main road in Kersik Tua at a very visible statue  of a tiger. The actual trip starts with a rather comfortable short five kilometer trip passed endless tea plantations and later in the higher part through vegetable growing fields. The actual path starts at 1645 meters and the first kilometer of the hike gradually ascends passed many more vegetable gardens and eventually enters into  dense rainforest. In this altitude even during the later part of the morning the temperature is comfortable and the going is easy and within 30 minutes the first covered shelter, Pos 1 at 1776 meters  is reached. As you have plenty of time stop frequently and enjoy the wonderful fauna and flora of the rainforest. You might even spot some rare  colored birds.  After Pos 1 the track gradually gets steeper but despite this fact the going is still comfortable and does not take too much energy. A further 30 minutes later Pos 2  at 1885 meter is reached offering  a welcomed cover during a sudden downpour.

The first small challenge

Finally the path gets steeper and just as on most volcanoes in this altitude rather slow going. Plenty of big roots litter the path and often rather steep drops require your hands for additional safety. Over the years and with every tropical shower the path is continuously washed out, carving  deeper and deeper into the rainforest ground. In one  area the path leads for almost 500 meter through a  rather deep 3 meter high  ravine which at the bottom is barely 10 cm wide. In several sections the  top is overgrown by foliage transforming the trek into a mysterious, wonderful tropical tunnel.  Once this section is behind you  will have a good hour left where the trail is in good condition and not to challanging. There are several more rest points along the way, each providing plenty of space to set up camp if required.  Eventually the forest gets lighter and gradually allow you good views of the country side far below.

The Camp

At 3040 meters you reach an opening in the forest  where a small trail leads to the left 30 meters to the first base camp. It is smart to spend the night at this well protected site which offers plenty of space for up to five tents. There is still a slowly deteriorating steel structure that  can be used to fix additional cover or as in our case act as a clothes line to dry our soaking wet belongings. The very same minute we reached this location we were welcomed by a rather uncomfortable 30 minute heavy rainstorm, leaving us soaking wet and rather cold, with serious concerns about the forthcoming night. It must have been our luck day as the sky then quickly cleared and we were able to dry our belongings in the warm late afternoon sun.

Day two 3 am. departure

As with any other sunrise experience on any volcano in Indonesia it is of utmost importance not to be on the summit before the sun rises as it is simply unbearable freezing cold that early of the morning. It will take about 3 hours of comfortable  slow hiking to reach the summit, making it smart to depart from the camp around 3 am. Ascending to the summit in the very early morning hours requires a strong head torch light. Especially during the first hour, as the path is in areas very steep and rather tricky and not always in good condition. Often slippery and in sections covered by loose stones. Go slow, take one step at the time and ensure  that you always have a safe grip. You will reach the final  camp (3306 meter) after a good hour, offering plenty of space for several tents in various locations. Due to the fact that the path for the past hour is steep, tricky and slow going we do not encourage anyone to spend the night at this site. It is extremely exhausting to carry all your gear through this section, with the result that this final camp is exposed to the elements and does not offer any protection from the often torrential winds. Yes the views are much better than in the lower camp. It was at this site a few years ago that Roman was forced to retreat from the mountain as the volcano was simply too active releasing far too much poisonous fumes.

The drama to the summit

Normally, even when hiking at night at close to zero temperatures, after 30  minutes you gradually heat up and start to take off layers of clothes. But not on Gunung Kerinci. With every meter altitude gained the wind seemed to increase,  blowing through every stitch in our  clothing. This time we added layers  of warm, protective clothing which was absolute essential. This must have been the first climb to any summit where I arrive not totally soaked in sweat. The last five hundred meters altitude on this mountain were definitely the most memorable meters of the entire journey.  The slowly approaching day light and the horrendous winds transformed the entire rocky top of the volcano into a rather surreal mood, reminding one more of an avant-garde painting from Pablo Picasso than a volcano in remount Sumatra. Or a scene from the Hollywood block buster  2012. “The end is nearing”. This final meters are pure volcanic land scape at it’s very best. Steep, rock, hostile and extremely rugged. Then about 100 altitude meters before the top the mountain side slightly flattens where you will be reminded by several memorial stones that every now and then even this mountain takes some lives. We were told that the last two fatalities took place a few years ago when two hikers fell into the scary deep active crater of the volcano. Despite this reminder there is absolutely no risk involved to get to the summit as long as one stays with his guide and follows the normal trek.

Gunung Kerinci Indonesia’s highest volcano, 3805 m

The last 30 minutes of the climb are sheer pleasure and filled with excitement. The howling torrential winds together with the fast approaching sunrise and the knowledge that the highest volcano in Indonesia is reached within a couple minutes lets you forget that you are at an altitude of 3800 meter where the oxygen level is low, making every step extra hard work. The small summit which is actually the narrow rim of the crater is reached rather suddenly offering stunning views in every direction. However what is exceptionally on Kerinci is the roughly 300 meter deep and just as wide crater, where in the deep center fast sulphur fumes escape from its  lake which reminded me of one of our stews in the kitchen bubbling away. The scene is  scary especially if you are challenged by heights as the inside crater walls fall almost vertically into the deep center. As expected in this height the views of the surrounding volcanic mountain ranges are extensive and you will spot volcanoes like Gunung Merapi or Gunung Singgalang as far away as Bukittinggi which are  about 150 km in the distance. Or to the south Gunung Matsuri and just a few kilometers across the valley the volcano range of Gunung Tujuh with its seven peaks and embedded in the center Danau Gunung Tujuh, one of Asia’s highest elevated volcanic lake sitting at just below 2000 meters.

Finally a little amusing anecdote about little people

Suddenly

Describes best our very memorable experience on Gunung Ebulobo. Nothing takes place  slowly and any change in landscape happened within a few meters. From flat to very steep, then it continues steep and without notice the ground covered by soil and pine needles gives way to rocks. Just as the landscape rapidly changes so changed the weather. One moment you enjoy a magnificent sunrise and a minute later you sit in a soup of fog that is so think, black and cold diminishing your sense of achievement after finally reaching the summit. Definitely not the longest and most exhausting climb found in Indonesia, but without question one of the most beautiful, memorable and picturesque volcanoes found in the country.

The climb includes all the elements one expects from a long extinct volcano, and the just over 1000 m altitude a hiker has to conquer are hard work and give you a serious work out, and as such we would not recommend the hike to anyone which is not in good physical condition.

Ascent from Molakoli, 924 m

Just as you begin your journey, the trip will end in Molakoli, and when it does then you will have the pleasure off enjoying this small traditional village with all its friendly inhabitants. Kids will follow you in a save distance, as they consider you as an alien from another planet. It is not very often that they get a chance to look at a white man, especially not one but two which look so old and as such are not capable of climbing their house mountain. It will take less then 10 minutes to leave the village behind you and enter a very healthy forest the gradually ascents passed several cornfields, and vegetable plantations. The going is pleasant and allows your body to prepare for the forthcoming very steep hill. Then after a further 15 to 20 minutes the real fun starts.

The abrupt ramp, 1034 m

On Gunung Ebulobo everything seems to happen very quickly and abruptly and not gradually. After less the 30 minutes of comfortable easy hiking where you made steady and fast progress, the mountain decides to get steep, and I mean very steep, simply steep, and from now to the summit it is steep.  You are surrounded by magnificent forest and the seldom-used path offers plenty of good solid grips. Most of this section within the forest is covered by pine needles that especially on the way down help to soften and damp each step. This very tiring steep section will take anywhere from 1 ½ to 2 hours. Different as on many other mountains the forest does not seem to change through out the hike. Normally as you gain on altitude the thickness of the foliage seems to change gradually and looses on density. But not so here on Gunung Ebulobo, then all of a sudden without notice and this perhaps within 20 meters the forest gives way to the final stony upper section.

Humble jumble rocky final scramble, 1769 m

If you depart at 3 am to be on the summit by sunrise, then by now the first early morning lights will start to illuminate the unusual magnificent mountaintop. The final 400 m to the summit will take a good hour. The path is still very steep on relatively solid rocks that offer plenty of good hold. Seldom we have come across a more interesting landscape that is dotted full of rocks of any size. Some are as big as a car and others would fit into your back pocket.

North eastern Flores

Interesting the trek is, but the views are simply breathtaking and really slowed me down, as I had to stop countless times and take plenty of photographs. Next it was time for a picture perfect sunrise with colors that where so intense that one needs to see for them selves to belief. With this textbook perfect sunrise the mood was set for equally spectacular views from the very top, which we quickly approached in anticipation.

The summit, 2137 m

But then with barely 50 meters to go the unimaginable happened. Clouds. This miserable thick grey soup appeared from nowhere and with it come these strong cold trade winds that made the entire mountain top experience surreal. After a circumnavigation of the actual top that took an easy 20 minutes we waited and waited for the skies to clear. Unfortunately this did not take place and after 20 minutes when we gradually started to severely shiver we decided that it was time to go home.

Fogy memories

In our memories we recalled that we read somewhere that the views from the top are simply stunning. Mountain ranges on one side, the ocean in the south, and the perfect cone shaped Gunung Inerie to the east. Not forgetting the active side from which we could not even smell the slightest sulfur odor.

The return journey

You will descent along the same route as you come up. The first 100 meters are perhaps the trickiest and are relatively slow going. This is actually a terrific excuse to take it slow and stop frequently to marvel the magnificent rocky mountainside as well as the endless sights in the distance. After a good 45 minutes you reach the edge of the forest and from then on it takes a comfortable 1-½ hours to get back to the village.

This entire section is relatively monotonous and yet still very picturesque as the forest seems to be very healthy and for a change we noticed an unusual large amount of bird life. Obviously the large trees offer plenty of welcomed shade and with it keep the temperature at a moderate comfortable level. Once the final super steep section is behind you, the path then leads passed the busy farming area where you come across lots of villagers that are busy attending their small lots of plantations. Before long you will be back in the village from where the views of Gunung Ebulobo are most impressive. Unfortunately to our greatest disappointment, by now the clouds have cleared from the summit giving us extra inspiration to imagine how very special a sunrise on the top could be.

The chitchat giggling, bare foot  bush girls

After meeting our guide Severinus in Molakoli things happened very quickly. A good morning to the guide and a by by to our bike taxis and we where on our way across the village at a rather fast pace. Quickly we made progress and within 20 minutes or just before we reached the really steep first section, out of nowhere two teenage girls appeared from the bushes. A brief good morning and very little short talk and the girls mentioned that they would join us to the summit. With our guide leading the little group followed by Roman and myself the girls followed close behind. A first glance confirmed to us they that the two adventurers where well prepared for this a hike. Headlight and a jacket is already more then most other hikers would carry. Steadily we made progress up the steep forest section and where rather surprised that our two followers had absolutely no problem with keeping  up with our relative high pace. Exactly the opposite happend and we where amazed about their continued conversations that followed by a never-ending giggle and laughter before debating the next obviously rather entertaining domestic gossip.

After the forest followed the rocky section and as we where half up this part and the approaching sunrise was not fare away I decided to take out my cameras and start to expose this very dramatic time of the day. In order to put things into proportion it is always a good idea to include people in the pictures. My friend Roman was well ahead at this time and my choice was therefore easy. The giggling girls become my models for the day. By now daylight had approached and for the first time I had a good look at the two young ladies. No shoes, not even sandals, no nothing at all but their bare feet’s. On our way back we then found out that the two gigglers took of their sandals halve way up the mountain as they found them to actually be an obstacle slowing them down. Amazed we where how the two walked with ease across the very sharp lava rocks in the top section. With the same lively humor as they followed us up the hill, they lead the way back to the village never actually making an attempt to talk to this two old tourists. Then a few meters after the final very steep section suddenly,  both Tange gigglers disappeared in the same way as the meet us earlier in the day.

Essential information

How to reach the base of the mountain

From Ende travel 80 km on the main Trans-Flores road West to the district town of Boawae where you spend the night prior to the climb. Then from Boawae it is a good 15 km to the starting point in Molakoli. First for about 8 km West along the main road back towards Ende and then after the turn off for another 7 km on a sort off road which is in desperate need for repair. This part of the journey is best done on the back of a motorbike Ojek and will take about 40 minutes at a cost of Rp. 50’000 (US$5.00) per person for the return journey.

Accommodation in Boawae

We spend the night in Wisma Nusa Bunga a simple small hotel directly at the main road at an incredible cost Rp. 90’000 (US$10) for the night. Well cheap it certainly was, and as to expect for this “steep”prize, they’re where a few areas in the room and especially in the bath room which where in desperate need of  serious attention. At least the bed sheet and the pillowcase were clean which guaranteed a good night sleep. Well, I almost forgot the bugs and mosquitos that are included in the room rate.

Guide

As in most places when we climb volcanoes, we will immediately inquire upon check in to our over night place about a possible guide that could lead us to the top of Gunung Ebulobo. Almost as soon as we finished our sentence our contact was on site, which happened to be the son of the hotel owner. A few phone calls later and at a cost of Rp. 50’000 we where a shored that our guide Severinus would wait for us as at 3.15 am at the starting point in Molakoli.

Permit

After return from the mountain we had to register at the Kepala Desa office and make a donation of Rp. 10’000 (US$1.10) per person. Obviously a little more would be most appreciated by the officers. The formalities where organized by our guide.

Water sources

There is no water along the route. If you start your adventure at 3 am then 1 ½ liters water is sufficient. If you climb later then bring a little more, and perhaps a sweet energy drink or a bottled milk shake, and of course some snacks. Nut are a good energy source and of course a bit of Swiss Chocolate.

Equipment/gear 

A good pair of hiking boots is highly recommended, as most of the trek is very steep.  Raincoat is compulsory, as well as a change of t-shirt and a warm jacket will offer you the protection from the elements when you sit in clouds on the summit. Ensure your hand phone is fully charged, as there is reception all the way to the summit.

Location Map

A most memorable adventure

Definitely not the longest and most exhausting climb found in Indonesia, but without question one of the most beautiful volcanoes found anywhere. The just over 1000 meters altitude a hiker has to conquer offers everything a real volcano has on offer. Some sections are seriously exhausting, others are exceptionally challenging and  at times very technical. Despite all the exhausting hard work along the route you are continuously rewarded, with views, which are simply stunning throughout the entire excursion. To enjoy the beauty of this mountain to its fullest make certain to be in good physical condition and under no circumstances under estimating the relatively short overall duration of the entire trip. Several sections are rather challenging and it is of great benefit if you have some previous trekking experience. Be honest and ask yourself when last you have seriously exercised strenuously for a solid 6 to 8 hours. If the answer is no, then you better have a good sleep in and marvel at the beauty of this perfectly shaped volcanic cone from the distance and not from the top.

Beginning of the volcanic cone, 1307 m, S8 52.189 E120 57.989

It will take a comfortable 30 minutes to reach the beginning of the actual full contact challenge. The path leads first past several simple bamboo homes and then within a few hundred meters reaches open grassland that will be with you for about ½ of your entire journey. The going is easy on a track that is in good condition offering plenty of solid hold.

Up the steep flank towards the rock, 1832 m,  S8 52.557 E120 57.651

The next hour is hard work and a rather monotonous, zigzag up the very steep mountainside. Plenty of mid size loose rocks offer an additional challenge, and keep you alert of where to step. Especially on the way down this section is rather strenuous as you need to judge each and every step to prevent accidental falls. Other wise the ground offers plenty of hold and the steep hill a terrific work out.

The halfway rock

The rock marks the half waypoint of the trail and the point where the adventure really starts to exciting and exhausting. Within a few meters the grounds no longer offers good grip, but becomes very barren, rocky, and is littered with lots of loose gravel making every single step a challenge and potentially hazardous.

The next 200 meters of altitude offer volcano climbing at its absolute very best. A terrain that is carved by deep ravines on both sides, unstable soil, slippery, rocky and views that are simply breathtaking. For obvious reasons the way up seems to be a lot easier as the return journey. Especially in this tricky section it is a good idea to wear gloves, as falls are simply unavoidable, and falling on your butt on can very quickly cause serious and painful  injuries. There is a bit of spiky scrub here and there that assists with a  little additional hold. This is without doubt the most challenging section that should be conquered within 30 to 45 minutes. Hard work and tricky this section is, but the rewards are plentiful, as the views are simply spectacular, especially when the first lights apear on the horizon.

The final 100 meters

Or 20 minutes before the first summit the going becomes a lot easier and faster, as the surface now consists of solid rock and with it offering a lot better hold. If you are on your way to the top for the sunrise, then the horizon is now painted in a kaleidoscope of colors illuminating the endless mountain ranges in the near and far.

The first summit, 2122 m S8 52.680 E120 57.427

The stop here on the way up should be brief as the sunrise is fast approaching. Spend a little more time here on the way down and enjoy the deep and rugged vent of the volcano.  A quick sip from the water bottle, and you are on your way again to conquer the final ascent to the summit. First you need to trek back down for a short 20 meters before heading up on the northern side of the rim.This final section is very steep and a little tricky requiring additional concentration and care, other wise one can very easily slip and fall a long way down the mountain side.  Several larger rocky steps and unstable surface offer a good challenge to even the experienced hiker.

The puncak, 2229 m S8 52.688 E120 57.271

Simply magnificent. A sunrise just as from the textbook and the stunning landscape of the South Eastern corner of Flores make this without questions one of the most beautiful and scenic province of Indonesia. Each and every direction has its own charm. The sunrise to the east, next to Gunung Ebulobo, the coastline in the south and vast mountain ranges to the north are the perfect setting for a most memorable hour on top of the world. Then with every minute, as the sun gets higher the landscape around and below you gets hit with an ever changing aria of colors and lights which clearly distinguishes and separates valleys.

The return journey

You will descend along the southern side of the crater rim, making this the most difficult 100 meters of the entire trip. Here the mountain is very steep and the trek on relatively solid rock. However there is a lot of loose gravel everywhere making each and every step a rather uncertain procedure. For me it was time to switch to four “wheel” drive. Sit down, hands protected by gloves and slowly I scrambled my way down to the bottom of the crater’s edge, which took a good 15 to 20 minutes. The trek then ascends again for a good 50 meters before returning to the first summit, where you will enjoy some well deserved refreshments while basking in beautiful warm sunshine.

The return journey takes just as long as the hike to the summit, but as on any other mountain I find the way down far more strenuous and exhausting. Especially on Gunung Inerie you have to really mind every single step as the entire path is littered with lots of loose gravel, small rocks from the size of a marble to as big as a football. Exceptional care requires the section that starts about 100 meters below the first summit and ends at the rock. This section is super slippery and mostly offers very little solid grip. Here it is wise to slow down and select each and every step very carefully. This might take a little longer but is well worth it in order to avoid falls and with it injuries.The remainder of the trek is more or less straight forward with the exception of the countless loose stones and small rocks the require lots of extra attention.  By this time it will be mid morning with the sun high up and absolute no shade anywhere  in sight making a good sun protection lotion absolutely essential. Other wise stop frequently stop  and enjoy the terrific views that are exceptional.

Hati-Hati Franciscus our Guide

Mr. Franciscus our guide which was born in 1966, and with it was years younger then Roman and myself. Despite this fact he looked a little like he could be our father and just as fathers alike was exceptionally concerned about our well-being and safety. Not a minute would pass without him cautioning us to watch out for whatever danger might lurk along the trek.  Hati-Hati in Indonesian meaning “be careful” this  very quickly become the slogan of our journey. Virtually hundreds of times he used this cautioning to warn us from even the smallest obstacle. At times he sang the word, next he imposed with it an order and then he reminded us that one needs to take extra care when waking up in the morning…

Hati Hati

This simple but meaningful caution describes in a nutshell our very special day on Gunung Inerie. Not a moment on the entire mountain will pass where you can relax and simply make your way up and down the volcano. The many loose rocks and gravel continually ask for a little extra attention and concentration. A little Hati-Hati and you will remember this extraordinary climb for years to come

Essential information

Ende – Bajawa

From Ende travel the 120 km on the main trans Flores road west to the district town of Bajawa where you should spend the night prior to the climb. Then from Bajawa it is a short 8 km drive on good roads to reach the small village of Watumeze from where you start your adventure.

Accommodation in Bajawa – Hotel Korina

There are several other very simple hotels in the same area. It is best not to have any expectations of the standards and be happy to get at least a clean bed sheet. Often it is amazing to see what is considered and named a hotel. Be happy with a clean bed sheet. Then again I always bring my sleeping bag, just in case!!!  As in most overnight stays across Indonesia hotel staff will have contacts to assist you with guides and transportation in the area.

Rp. 250’000 per room with two beds and hot water.

Rp. 150’000 per room with two beds and cold water only.

Bijou – Watumeze, 1112 m S8 51.724 E120 58.304

It will take between 20 to 30 minutes by car or on the back of a motorbike to reach the starting point  of the hike in Watumeze. As the entire mountain offers absolutely no shade we highly recommend starting the climb at around 3 a.m if you wish to be on the summit for sunrise.

Recommended Guide   Francisco Hp: 085 239 546 145 

Easy available from the village of Watumeze from where the trail starts. The best way to organize you guide is after checking in at your overnight stay in Bajawa. It took only a few minutes before Florian (Hp: 085 239 142 283) our guide contact arrived. Allow yourself some time to negotiate a good prize.

We payed Rp. 300’000 (US$32) that included Rp.100’000 (US$9) commission for Florian

Water 

There is no water along the route. If you start your adventure at 3 am then 1 ½ liters water is sufficient. If you climb later then bring one additional liter, as the entire trek offers absolutely no shade. Beside water an energy drink is always packed in our bags.

Equipment/gear 

A good pair of hiking boots is highly recommended, as the upper section is extremely slippery and offers virtually no grip.  Raincoat is compulsory. Then a Change of t-shirt and a warm jacket will offer you the protection from the elements when you enjoy the magnificent views at the summit.

Location map