Gunung Kelimutu 1647
It is believed that spirits come to Kelimutu when people die. The maE (spirit) would leave its village and remain in Kelimutu forever, before entering one of the lakes. The spirits would first meet Konde Ratu, the guard of the gate at Perekonde. Which lake the spirits would enter depends on its age and character when alive. The lakes look like colorful paints.
The water’s color changes without any prior natural clues. The mineral contained in the water causes the water to change into unpredictable colors.The situation in Kelimutu changes not only due to the lakes color but also to the climate. It is no wonder this mystical place has become a legend since the old days. Local people believe that this place is sacred.
Mone for two nights
To really appreciate the views of Kelimutu sunshine is absolute essential. We have read in many publications that the lakes are often covered by thick blankets of clouds. This was not any different during our first attempt to experience a glorious sunrise. First we spent several hours waiting at the car park for the weather to clear, before we decided at 9 a.m to walk to the summit, which only takes a little more then 30 minutes. Unfortunately the weather Gods were not on our side and we decided to go home after a cool two hours in the clouds. On our drive back to Mone we decided to spend a second night in Mone to have another go the next morning.
We barely made it back to the village when the skies cleared and at 3 pm we decided to return back to the mountain to see if this time the luck would be on our side in the afternoon. Yes, this time the weather Gods were on our side and we enjoyed a magnificent afternoon enjoying the stunning landscape all around us, and all this completely on our own.Mornings can be rather crowded. We know for a fact that many of the visitors the same morning left the mountainside rather disappointed, as they knew from pictures how pretty the scene could be with a little sunshine.
Accommodation
As mentioned earlier it is wise to plan two nights in Mone, which hopefully will give you a chance to experience the three lakes in bright sunshine. The extra time will give you the possibility to explore the many sights in and around this very picturesque little village. Stroll through the market in the morning or enjoy a hot bath in the nearby thermal spring. Venture across the extensive plantations on the outskirts from where you also have terrific views of the surrounding mountain ranges, followed by dip cool off within a pretty waterfall nearby.Accommodations are plentiful and mostly rather simple costing as little as Rp.100’000 (US$10) per night. Alternatively you can spend the night in the comfort of the stare rated Eco lodge spend costing substantially more for obvious reasons.
The scenic route to Mone
From Ende travel the 53 km on the main trans Flores road east towards Maumere, which will take an easy two hours. Hopefully you have a lot more time and spend hours along this fabulous mountains road, stop frequently and take lots of photos. Visit small villages, marvel at markets, stop along the road and be amazed at the valley far below. In short this has to be one of the prettiest 50 km of road anywhere in Indonesia. This together with the fact that the light traffic offers few hazards and that the Government is making major efforts to upgrade this main transition road, build the foundation that hopefully in the future many more visitors will find their way into this isolated part of Flores. A car with chauffeur will cost around Rp.500’000 (US$50) per day including petrol. On the back of a motorbike, Ojek will cost a lot less. 
Rp.150’000 per day that is cheap, but also very uncomfortable, especially when you carry your back bags. A further alternative would be public transports, which is very cheap but requires a lot more time and is not always reliable.
Permits at the entrance gate to Kelimutu (1248m) S8 46.227 E121 50.025
Are required and are available at the entrance to the Kelimutu National park half way up on the road from Mone to the car park and cost for foreign visitors, Rp.50’000 (US$5) and Indonesians Rp.5’000 (US$0.50). Please ensure to bring the right amount, as the national park authorities will greatly struggle with change, which created in our case a rather big bottleneck and some unnecessary waiting. After clearing all formalities it will take an easy 15 minutes driving along the small winding and road to the starting point from where you will start “your walk in the park”
Transportation from Mone
The 15 km drive from Mone to the car park marking the starting point of the short walk will cost on the back of a motorbike Rp. 100’000 (US$10) for the return journey, or in the comfort of a car Rp. 250’000. The trip will take just over one hour that includes 15 minutes that it will take to purchase the entry pass to the national park. Depart around 4.15 am to be on the summit for sunrise.
The short 30 minute walk (1550 m) S8 46.332 E121 49.101
The walk to reach the inspiration point from where you can see all three lakes will take an easy 30 minutes of comfortable walking along a well-maintained track. Within 15 minutes you will reach the first steps leading 25 meters up to the crater rim of Tiwu Ata Polo (Bewitched, or Enchanted Lake) measuring 4 hectares and reflecting on our day a deep green color. Back on the track follow the path for five more easy minutes of leisurely walking before reaching the final two sets of 200 steps that will slightly increase your heartbeat before reaching the summit. Just as the path to the summit the return journey does not offer any challenges 
and you should be back at the starting point within less then 30 minutes where you will have a chance to enjoy a terrific glass of piping hot coffee and perhaps a breakfast of instant noodles and local cakes.
A walk in the park
This is without question one of the easiest to reach mountaintops in the country. The fact that one needs to gain only a little more then 100 meters altitude will give even the physically very unfit the possibility to marvel the beauty of a volcanic mountain range. Even lightly handicapped people would be able to venture to the Inspiration Point. The first half of the trek is relatively flat and later the stairs are guarded by rails which assist with additional hold.
Essential information
Trek recommendation
This short and ultra easy accessible sight is certainly very scenic and offers terrific views in the immediate surrounding as well as the southeastern mountain ranges of Flores. Take care around the summit and avoid venturing off the trails, as the grounds do not offer the best of hold and can be rather slippery. We have heard of several fatal accidents where people slipped and fell a long way down toward the lakes.
Water, food and souvenirs
There are several simple food stalls at the end of the road car park offering snacks and beverages at a reasonable cost. Most importantly they offer hot beverages that are most welcomed after a cold wet morning on the summit waiting passionately for the skies to clear. There are also some locally produced souvenirs available for purchase foremost a rather nice collection of locally woven ikats.As the entire round trip to the summit takes less then one hour it is perhaps smart to bring a small bottle of water.
Equipment/gear
The hike itself does not offer any challenge and as such a pair of running shoes is sufficient. However it is essential to bring a warm jacket to protect you from the winds and the elements as well as a raincoat
Weather condition
As on any other mountain in this altitude, never underestimate the elements and be prepared for sudden weather changes. A raincoat as well as a warm jacket must be in your backpack.
Special Flora/Fauna
The car park as well as the lower section is still surrounded by healthy mountain forests that are inhabited by many birds as well as some monkeys. Then final upper section is purely volcanic with very little foliage.
Other attractions
If you enjoy hiking then there are several interesting mountains in the immediate surrounding. The easy reachable Keli Lepembusu or Golo Sano would really bring you off the standard tourist route.
Alternative routes
There is actually an alternative path to reach the summit. However when we contacted the national park authorities they advised that the path is to dangerous and closed for hikers. They actually refused to provide a guide to lead us to the summit.
A tribute to the ladies of Flores
Most visitors to Kelimutu will enjoy either before or after their journey to the inspiration point a well-deserved hot glass of coffee or a small snack that is prepared by a few always smiling and happy ladies. This obviously wakes one up or then warms up the freezing bodies after an unfortunate sunrise in the windy clouds. In order to get a piping hot coffee into your glass at one of the Warungs at the car park, the ladies who make this possible have to rise in the middle of the night at three a.m. in the village 7km far below. After packing all the essentials, they will carry the day’s supply for two hours up small treks and then along the main road to the starting point of your hike. In the chilly morning hours a small fire is lit where in a small pan a few liters of water will be kept bubbling for the ever-hungry visitor.
The day then will end for these beetle nut chewing ladies around three thirty with an equally tiring return journey to their homes, where family and loved ones await their home coming. Obviously the day will not end upon return, as everyone requires attention and then of course Mama needs to get ready for next days coffee session. All this for as little as US$10 a day.
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