Gunung Semeru 3676
Gunung Semeru is looked on by Javanese Hidues as the most sacred mountain of all and the father of Gunung Agung on Bali. Memories of this adventure will stay with you forever. The journey is hard work and takes a lot of energy out of you. Fortunately this is a very small prize to pay if you see what this gigantic volcano gives you back. The seconds on top of Gunung Semeru witnessing the incredible powerful outburst of firry rocks followed by this amazing puff of smoke will stay in your deepest memory forever. A story on volcanoes will never be complete without getting all excited trying to describe the feelings when standing on top of this sacred mountain witnessing the enormous power of mother earth. Once you where privileged to be on Gunung Semeru, you will always have the desire to return.
Setting
The steep slopes of the active volcanoes Gunung Semeru and Gunung Bromo have been the home of the Tenggerese people for several hundred years. The only group of people on the island who remained Hindu, they are believed to be descendants of the Hindu Buddhist Majapahit kingdom that fell in the 16th century. As Islam swept through Java, Hindu priest and aristocrats fled to Bali. Blambangan (in south Java) and the Tenggerese maintain a unique form of Hinduism mixed with animism and live as farmers working the fertile farmlands on the slopes of Bromo. The region is a major vegetable-growing area and the spectacular gardens and high altitude pine trees are a wonderful sight. But the main attraction of the area is a visit of Bromo’s smoldering crater at sunrise which could also be described as a journey to an ancient moon like landscape, which has to be one of Indonesia’s most scenic and photographed panorama.
The journey from Surabaya
Most visiter will start there journey in the East Java provincial capital of Surabaya. With its major port the city was and still is a major trading place for the Indonesian archipelago. When arriving at Surabaya’s Juanda International airport it is very easy to charter a taxi or book a ticket directly from one of the counters for the three hour journey to the mountain village of Camara Lawang where you will spend the first night. A cheaper way would be by public transport, which will require easily double the time as well as an endless amount of passion in a non air conditioned antic van from the last millennium.The adventure will immediately start when departing the airport grounds and the congested roads of the city are hit.
The traveling is slow which will give you plenty of time to study the traffic rules in Indonesia’s second largest city. We take the route east towards the city of Probolingo and will turn off the main road to the South in Ketapang about 5 km before the city.From here the now much smaller road starts to climb towards the town of Patalan and further to Sukapura, Sapikerep, Ngadisari and eventually the mountain village of Camara Lawang. First you travel passed miles of carefully looked after rice fields and as the road leads up to higher altitudes the rich volcanic soils yield an abandoned crop of vegetables, supplying food for the hungry people in the surrounding cities. Cabbage, shallots, garlic, carrots, beans, corn, and tomatoes are as plenty full as local favorites such as snake beans, gonde, water spinach, Asian eggplants, loads of chilies, cassava, sweet potatoes, various gourds, as well as every imaginable fruit.
The night before in Camara Lawang
As you slowly drive into the village every couple of meters hopeful guides will almost demand you to accept there services for the next morning. Politely decline their assistance as you wish to check into the hotel first. In most cases your driver will have a good address which will offer you a place to sleep for the night at very reasonable cost. Check in with very little expectations and be happy if the bed is reasonable clean. Once in your overnight stay your hosts will offer you various day trips for the next morning. As we found out throughout our short stay, prizes are more or less the same within the village, which was comforting to know. Most home stays serve simple meals and ice cold beer.
A terrific start to explorer the surrounding is a 1/2 stroll out of the village to the edge of the crater from where one gets a magnificent areal view of the massive Bromo caldera. Unfortunately during late afternoon clouds often cover the volcanic landscape into a velvety blanquette, adding more drama to the scenery.
Pananjakan 2775 m
Crater Rim of Bromo
Ludwig von Beethofen could not have composed a more strikingly, spectacular symphony
The morning starts early with a 3 am breakfast if one decides to hick to witness the sunrise, which we highly recommend. Unfortunately most visitors decide to sleep an hour longer and then ride the journey in a 1970 vintage model Toyota land cruiser which can be rented for around US$50 for four person. On the contrary a guide will only cost you about US$20 for the four hour round trip. The hike will take you a comfortable 1 1/2 hours. 
First for about 40 minutes passed rich vegetable plantations before heading steep up the crater rim. Especially on the way back you will be blessed with amazing views of the moon like horizon. Bring along a small back bag with a change of t-shirt as well as a very warm jacket as the summit is exposed to often freezing cold winds. 
Yes you are in the tropics, put belief us we have encountered some of the coldest mornings in our life’s here in Indonesia!. Due to a large amount of radio and phone transmitters a well maintained sealed road allows easy accesses to this very popular tourist destination. Dozens of small road side stalls offer many different delicious refreshments, piping hot coffee as well as warm clothing which is desperately needed.
The long march
There are three possibilities one can undertake the very scenic 20 km journey across the sandy savanna like center of the crater. The easiest and most comfortable way is by Toyota land cruiser which will take you in about 2 1/2 hours at a cost of roughly US$120 for a return journey. Slightly cheaper but a lot less comfortable and more adventures is on the back of a small motor scooter.
Actually this is rather hard work as you also carry your own back pack. Then the healthiest and most memorable way is by walking which we have done once. To assist us we hired a guide with a pony that carried all our gear. To our amusement, the last fife kilometer down hill towards Ranupani the pour Pony started to limp just as our guide did. However as we found out after paying the US$40 for their services, the guide without thanking sprang on top his four legged carrier, hit him hard twice and took off making John Wayne look like an infant. Do not forget to book your return journey on arrival as it can be very difficult to find a vehicle bringing you back to the main roads.
Ranupani 2200 m
If you arrive in Ranupani during the later part in the afternoon then make your way directly to the National park office which is located just passed the little town ship on the way out of town. Here you have to organize your permits and at the same time this is the best place to arrange your guides which are essential. We where extremely fortunate that on both our adventures we where guided by genuine happy father-son guides that not only carried all our heavy luggage, but also introduced us to many of their everyday secrets, gossips and local habits. The national park officers will gladly help you to find a suitable, but simple place to stay the night. Your friendly host for the night will happily prepare a tasty feast of steamed rice, vegetables and perhaps a couple pieces of fried chicken, that is accompanied by a very spicy chili sauce. Keep in mind that at this altitude just after sunset the temperature tropes very quickly into the low teens. As such wrap yourself into many layers of warm clothing when going to sleep. You will forever remember your ice cold shower.
The village has on both occasion given us time for a fascinating look around town. Stroll down the road and watch kids playing a simple stone game, or planting seedlings into a plastic cup. Witness a game of soccer at the potato pitch near the lake, or step up the to the small Hindu temple from where you overlook the village, with it’s fertile vegetable fields. 
Then of course in the back sits the massive Gunung Semeru puffing out every fife minutes heavy black smoke, looking like a gentle giant smoking a delicious Sumatran cigar. At this stage it is extremely important to remember, to keep an fantastic amount of respect from this mountain. Then every now and then every gentle giant can get dangerously violent. Listen carefully to the national park officers as well as your local guides. Unfortunately too many careless hikers have lost their lives, due to ignorance which is really not needed.
Ran Kumbolo 2400 m
If you reach this popular camp side during the later part of the morning allow yourself a well deserved rest, have a bit to eat and a laze for an hour in the sun. Two concrete shelters in need of restoration offer welcome protection during frequent weather changes as seen often in this altitudes. Unfortunately this is not the cleanest campsite , making it absolute imperative to bring back your own waist.
Rano Kumbolo – Arcopodo 2800 m
The second part of the day to the overnight camp will take a good three hours of comfortable, enjoyable marching. We call this section a walk in the park as the trek is good, the views stunning and only after about two hours there is a 30 minute stepper ascent to yet another ridge. Keep in mind when you get to the higher areas of this part that the path actually leads along the foot of Gunung Kepolo which is one of the 13 volcanoes in Java that is over 3000 meter high. After the turn off to Kepolo, and reaching the highest point the trek very quickly flattens and slowly descents towards the next camp sight which will offer you shelter for the forth coming short night. This extremely picturesque portion of the hike offers impressive views of Semeru. The occasional gigantic eruptions of smoke add loads of adrenaline in anticipation of the morning ahead.
Gunung Kepolo 3035 m
Check with your guides prior to your departure in Rano Pani if they know the turn off and the trek to this seldom visited look out. The detour and round trip will take approximately 2 1/2 hours which is worth the adventure. In large sections the overgrown trek needs to be cleared which makes the going rather slow. Being next to the massive Gunung Semeru we expected stunning views which to our disappointment we where denied, as the top of the long ex tinged crater is totally over grown making it impossible to venture your way to the western side of the rim which would allow to see Semeru. However you still get splendid views of the neighboring volcanic mountain ranges.
Arcopodo – Base Camp 1, 2800 m
Located on the foot of Gunung Semeru, this site provides two slowly collapsing shelters that can offer welcome protection during frequent tropical down pours between the months of October and April. We highly suggest to spend the night prior to your final summit run at this sight as the concrete structures really do protect you from the harsh mountain climate. 
During our second visit to Semeru we did not stop at this site and carried all our gear to Base Camp 2. Then minutes after we set up camp a horrendous thunderstorm forced us to pack our packs once over and return to base 1. Unfortunately by then we did not have one dry piece of cloth on us, making the following hours a rather uncomfortable cold affair. This site also offers a year long flowing fresh water spring that is a good 15 minute hick away. Should you reach this site early then we recommend to make an extra effort and collect the water personally. This will give you a chance to clean up and have a good wash.
Arcopodo – Summit
Prior to your departure in the morning think carefully about your strength and ability to work your way uphill. Keep in mind that the summit is roughly 3700 meter high and that you are currently sitting at about 2800 meter. In our case we average a good 400 to 450 meters altitude gain an hour, meaning that we are able to reach the summit in a comfortable 3 hours. Under no circumstances you want to be on the summit before sunrise as the freezing temperatures together with the howling strong trade winds will give you only minutes on the top before you start to seriously chill, unless you carry mountain gear that is made for the Himalayas. With sunrise around 6.30 am depart Arcopodo around 2.30 am. The first 300 meters lead flat through grassy waist land before steeply descending for 200 meters down into a valley. There you cross a mostly dry river bed and then the fun starts. The only thing between you and a mind blowing experience is the side of 1100 meter high volcanic cone. The first third inclines steeply through still rather tens high altitude forest. As in every forests there are steep steps, countless large roots and in some areas several dangerous drops that require extra attentions. The going is hard but comfortable and with the add of a good head light the path is clearly visible.
Base Camp 2, 3000 m
After a good hour Base Camp 2 is reach and by then you will be ready for a 15 minute break, a sip from the water bottle and perhaps a bit to eat. Shortly after departing the final camp you need to cross a rather tricky section. The elements have over the passed years completely weathered and washed away the path adding a bit of excitement to the trip. Within minutes you will reach the forest line and with it an altitude around 3100 meters. Then all of a sudden when you get out of the woods, together with a crystal clear sky, billions of stars, a full moon, and an amazingly impressive volcano cone, you will be seriously impressed and touched.
Not only the surrounding is sensational, but also the going gets now humorlessly tough. One step up and halve a step down, one up and two down and this for a seemingly endless time. There is only one direction and this is up through the loose gravel. By now the sweat does not trip anymore, but pours out of you. The fact that I seriously exercise everyday, enormously helps me in this upper section, to be well ahead of other adventurers. However what completely annoys me is the fact that our dear porters which are notorious chain smokers hardly break sweat and virtually run up this heavy deep slippery gravel. As you need to stop often to regain your strength make it a habit to look up the mountain and see if you can spot a smoky eruption, which seem to get bigger and more massive as you get closer to the summit.
The final pre dawn stop, 3600
As you reach the final upper section the whole area is littered with large rocks and boulders and the actual trek is not as steep anymore. Hopefully at this stage the fast approaching sunrise illuminates the entire horizon into a spectacular kaleidoscope of pre dawn colors. It’s time to prepare for the final ascent to the summit. Protected from the often torrential winds have a change of shirt, and cover yourself with layers of warm clothing. Highly recommended is a waterproof thermal jacket. Get your cameras ready, a big sip from the water bottle and perhaps another snack and your perfectly ready for something that most people will never experience. From here you have only a good 100 meters to go before you reach the highest point of Java. This together with frequent smoky outbursts will raise your heart beat to dangerously high levels in anticipation of an natural spectacle.
The summit
Unfortunately a pen can not put down on paper the excitement and emotions one goes through when reaching the highest point. To the east you want to witness a spectacular sun rise over an incredible volcanic panorama. At the same time you do not want to miss the next eruption which will occur perhaps 250 meters away to the west. East-West-East-West-East, and then a scream from one of the other hikers. There she blows, and puff. 
A hump of black smoke and then a supper big puff, which throws out not only smoke but also fiery rocks which you can hear when they land on the steep flank of the volcano. A little like listening to a hail storm. Within a minute the smoky outburst raises easily between 1500 – 2000 meter into the early morning sky. All of a sudden you become witness of an symphony between the relentless power of the earths explosive center and the life giving sun. Together they seem to paint a message into the sky which remain you of a demon from the earths gut.
Unluckily there is this outrageous chilling wind which by now, seem to froze you stiff. There is a battle between the raising sun that gradually warms up the mountain top and the fast departing night. You want to see another eruption which should occur immediately, but fortunately we can not push nature. Seconds and minutes seem to drag on much slower then a snail would move. Eventually you will be rewarded with one final outburst giving more opportunities for photos which will forever bring memories back of an incredible special morning.
Despite the sheer beauty and spectacle, please be aware of the fact that you are very close (almost to close) to an extremely, powerful spectacle, that can transfer you very quickly into a life threatening situation. At all time listen very carefully to your guides and when they suggest to go, then go and go fast. As we where told many times, the only safe time to be on top of Semeru are the first two hours after sunrise. Rapidly changing winds can instantly blow the poisoness smokes into the wrong direction, which is a place you definitely do not want to be in. During our first visit the enclosed photograph was shot about 2 1/2 hours after we where on the summit. In this shot you can clearly see that the entire summit is covered by a seriously thick blanquette of poisons smoke and fumes.
A very long way home
Ideally allow yourself two days for the long march back to Ranopani and spend one more night at Rano Kumbolo. That way you have plenty of time for additional stops and with it take in this magnificent volcanic scenery. All together it will take about 8 hours for the trek from the Summit back to Ranopani which can definitely be done in one day, but then the final three hours become endlessly long and very exhausting, a real test of your mental strength and stamina.
The journey back to Surabaya
Instead of going back to Bromo take the road via Ngadas, Gublugklakah, Tumpang passed Malang. The first 20 km are exceptional scenic with more stunning views over the massive Bromo Caldera. The sides of the volcano flanks are covered by fertile vegetable fields where most of the crops end up in the markets in Surabaya and Jakarta.
Direction to Gunung Semeru
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