Gunung Rinjani 3755
Do not attempt to climb Rinjani, which is without question one of Indonesia’s most beautiful, but also one of the most demanding volcanoes, if you are not in very good health and in physical top condition. That way you will be overjoyed at the beauty of this spectacular mountain, and will not end up with unwanted memories from an excursion that caused unwanted damage to your body. Remember you are entering high alpine regions where the weather can dangerously change in minutes. Unfortunately many lives have been unnecessarily lost on this demanding mountain, due to ignorance of alpine basics, like proper shoe wear, warm clothing for bitterly cold nights and most importantly a high quality full length rain coat. We climbed Rinjani for the second time leaving Bali on Monday, April 6 2009 and returned with overwhelming memories on Thursday, April 9 2009
Selaparang, Mataram Airport
After landing on a short 20 minutes Garuda flight from Bali we hired a Taxi at regular rates directly at the airport and drove the short 30-minute journey (about 20 km) to Senggigi Beach. Once in the Taxi it was rather easy to organise a simple but clean hotel for the night at Senggigi Beach, and at the same time we negotiated a reasonable price with the taxi driver to drive us the following morning to the mountain village of Sembulun Lawang from where we started our trekking adventure.
Senggigi Beach
Has several star rated hotels and lots of choice for the budget travellers staying in simple inexpensive rooms, or home stays. There is no shortage of countless empty restaurants offering a great choice of world cuisines. However do not order with any expectations of culinary quality and be satisfied with what you get. A plate of fried noodles or fried rice will certainly satisfy a hungry belly. The beer however is kept ice cold, which is some compensation. With a bit of luck you might be able to discover local specialities like Ayam Taliwang, Grilled Chicken served with delicious local Water Spinach, Pelecing Kangkung, accompanied by Sambel Terong, which is a very spicy Eggplant Salad. When visiting Lombok it should be compulsory that one savours at least once this delightful Grilled Chicken dish.
Keep in mind that the chickens used for this dish are local free-range village chickens that are incredible tasty, but due to their extensive runs lack seriously on meat. Should you wish to book a completely guided trekking trip to the summit of Rinjani, then you will easily locate several shops offering fully organised tours, including overland transfer, guides, national park entrance fees, tents as well as food. A three-day, two-night trip will cost a reasonable US$150 per person, not including a well-deserved tip for the porters and guides.
Senggigi Beach–Sembalun Lawang 80 km–3 hours drive
At dawn the next morning we left Senggigi with direction East towards Tanjung, which is the departure point to reach the well known Gili Islands. The first 20 km of the trip is simply spectacular and without doubt one of Indonesia’s most picturesque coastal drives. Set aside some time to stop and bring home lots of great early morning seaside photos. Gunung Agung to the West and an ocean covered with small fishing boats make a perfect back drop.
After Tanjung the street gets substantially narrower and is spiked with lots of pot holes slowing down the drive to a meagre 30 km an hour. The advantage of the slow speed is the fact that one has time to enjoy the many great scenic sights, with rice fields, busy villages and packed markets along the road and Gunung Rinjani as a stunning backdrop, that is gradually growing bigger and taller.
When looking at Rinjani from the distance one would not think that this second highest volcano of Indonesia is well over 3700 meter high. Allow yourself a good three hours for the drive from Senggigi to Sembulan Lawang, which includes an hour for photo stops.
Sembalun Lawang
Once in the village, one needs to register at the national Parks office and obtain permits at a cost of about US$15 per person. This is $15 well spent, then if you do not return at a given time, then a search and rescue mission will be set up that has saved many lives in the past, but sadly enough also brought back many unfortunate ones who ignored the risks of this very rugged mountain. 
At the same office guides and porters, camping gear as well as food can be arranged. As we always travel with our own hiking outfit it will take normally about 1½ hour before the guides are ready to head up the mountain. Cost per porter per day is set at US$10 per day and can be around US$15 on some other mountains. We always bargain and negotiate to the best of our abilities and then when it comes to actually paying these genuine, fantastic simple friends of the mountain, then we always overpay, at least 50 % more then the initial deal was.
Sembulan Lawang 1134m-Plawangan dua, 5 – 6 hours
After obtaining all permits and organising the guides it is a good idea to enjoy a hearty breakfast of fried rice, crackers and a large banana juice while waiting for the porters to get ready. The first hour hiking along rolling hills takes one through vegetable fields and farming areas, which is the easiest portion of the whole trip. Once the farming area is left behind, the path follows a 30-year-old project, when during President Suhartoes reign a street was under construction from Sembulan Lawang to the Crater Lake of Rinjani.
Fortunately due to a change in politics, and a lack of funding this project come to an end and was aborted. What was left was handed back to nature, which is gradually taking back its old possessions. However the lucky trekker benefits from many bridges across old lava flows, which is making the path most enjoyable. The second hour continues along rolling hills through grassland and gradually climbing closer to the actual bottom of the volcano where the serious challenge starts.
There are several resting points, offering a welcomed break and escape from the heat of the day. Keep in mind that during both our trips to Rinjani we started to hike around 11 am, which is obviously during the hottest part of the day. If you’re lucky it is now the time when light clouds slowly cover the mountain into a velvety mist protecting one from direct sunlight.
Once you leave the rolling hills, the track gets steeper and steeper and with it very hard exhausting work. Time has finally arrived to take it easy, slow down your pace and take one step at a time. This will give you a chance to enjoy spectacular scenery and plenty of very special volcanic vegetation. 
Make certain to drink lots of water and have all your exposed body parts protected by serious suntan protection. For the next three hours one will need to work hard to gain altitude and for almost the entire time uphill, you will continuously see a summit which to the disappointment of most hikers turns out to be just another ridge. But then when finally the last ridge is conquered one is rewarded with an absolutely magnificent panorama. The summit of Rinjani to the left high above, and direct ahead 600 meters down Lake Rinjani offering one of Indonesia’s most spectacular views. The track then follows for 20 minutes along the rim of the crater to the final destination of the day where camp will be set up for the night. Just to arrive at the camp site can be a remarkable reward as the view, if the weather permits is simply breath taking. A volcanic wonderland right on your foot steps. In the center of a steep 600-meter drop lies lake Rinjani gently protected by the rugged volcanic calder that towers in some areas up to 1000 meter and at the fare end almost 1700 meter above the waters.
The camp
Just to arrive at the camp site can be a remarkable reward as the view, if the weather permits is simply breath taking. A volcanic wonderland right on your foot steps. In the center of a steep 600-meter drop lies lake Rinjani gently protected by the rugged volcanic calder that towers in some areas up to 1000 meter and at the fare end almost 1700 meter above the waters. The campsite offers plenty of comfortable space for up 10 tents. When following another path at the fare end one will reach after about 250 meters a rock face from which crystal clear spring water drizzles. Perfect for a ice cold wash in a sparkling clear mountain spring, and perfect to fill up your empty water bottles.
Timing
As with any volcanic climb it is wise to choose your dates with keeping the journey of the moon in mind. As during the dry season most nights are crystal clear it is best to climb volcanoes when there is a half moon. If so then after 3 am the moon is normally at its highest point, which will illuminate the tracks in a way making torch-light’s almost not essential.
Avoid under all circumstances to be on the summit before sunrise, unless you have very good high alpine protecting clothing. Summits are always exposed to the elements, meaning that during the dry season with all the trade winds blowing, it can be extremely cold. Once the sun has risen, the temperature will quickly rise, making a well-deserved rest on the summit an absolute joy. Time your climb to the best of your abilities. In our case with lots of volcano hiking experience, we are able to gain between 400 – 450 meter altitudes per hour. These corresponds on Rinjani into an estimated 2 hour and 45 minute slow and very hard climb.
Day 2: Plawangan dua 2690m-Rinjani summit 3731m
A very tough challenge with an out (or better on top) of this world reward
The first 350-meter after leaving the camp side is rather steep and follows a mostly compact track passing high altitude vegetation, which will give way to purely volcanic gravel from an altitude of around 3000 meters onwards. The first portion of the track will end on the ridge of the crater, offering in the bright moonshine spectacular amazing views. With Rinjani high ahead, and the crater rim all around.
The next 400 meters altitude climb is most enjoyable, with a path that is slowly getting steeper and steeper, but with a rather compact surface. Obviously being well over 3000 meters will slow down your overall movements and pace. Once again the ridge offers unforgettable mystic views, and as we get higher and closer to the sunrise, the horizon is gradually showing signs of light. With every step, the summit is seemingly getting closer and closer and yet we still have at least one hour to go and three hundred meter altitude to conquer. 
For anyone believing that Rinjani is a walk in the park, it could not be further from the truth as the last three hundred meters offer volcano climbing at it’s purest. The very steep final stage, challenges you with very soft deep sand that does not offer any grip. One step up, ½ step down, one up, two down, and this for a seemingly endless hour. Due to the high altitude one needs to recuperate one’s breathe every 10 meters before getting nearer the top.
At this stage daylight has transformed the entire scene into a totally different mood, as you now can clearly absorb the massiveness of the mountain.
The final meters become a race against the clock, and the fast approaching sunrise. Five meters ahead is another rock and another corner, from where one can see the next edge, another rock and finally a last turn before passing a final small and narrow ridge to the very top of Indonesian’s second highest volcano. A final sprint, the top is reached, the backpack comes off, the camera bag to the ground, a quick sip from the water bottle, out comes the camera and click, and here comes the sun.
What a world! Simply magnificent, stunning!
Colors for the first hour after sunrise are simply stunning and keep changing from minute to minute offering an unlimited amount of picture opportunities. Gradually a sense of achievement drives shivers through the body, and pride lets you instantly forget the pain of the past hours. Our beloved planet is thoroughly beautiful. Being on my own on top of the summit I watch in the distance other hikers slowly approaching the point of everyone’s final destination.
When finally reached, soaked in sweat and at the end of most people’s physical limits, every one erupts into a burst of joy, overwhelmed by the endless sights. It is at this stage essential to have a change of clothes, a fresh t-shirt and a warm jacket which will protect you from the often very harsh, strong and cold trade winds.
Summit-Plawangan, Crater Rim Camp
It takes around three hours to reach the top and the same path downhill will take less then half the time. It is tempting to slide down the gravel and forget to continue absorbing the magnificent views of this rugged mountain world. Frequently stop and bring home a lot more pictures from this unforgettable morning. A morning of a day that will be in your memories forever.
Plawangan-Donau Segara
After a hearty breakfast and the breakdown of the overnight camp, the next stage is less physical but rather technical as the surface can be rather slippery. The first hour of the hike is very steep and slow going. Every now and then one should stop and look back up the steep path, which at times looks almost vertical and most impressive. Despite the very vast trop there is really no reason to be worried as at no time one can fall a long way. Eventually the track flattens and leads though highland grassland across several ancient overgrown lava flows.
After a further hour the lake gradually comes in sight that marks an end of the second days hiking adventure. As every stop on this beautiful mountain offers spectacular views, the second night campsite is no exception. The dramatic, rugged rim of the volcano encasing and protecting the lake in the center with Rinjani in the east dropping almost 1700 meters vertical from the summit into the waters of the crater lake.
This is not necessarily the cleanest camp site as often large groups of local pilgrims use this area as a resting point leaving behind large amounts of plastic and other waste. One of the main reasons for the importance of this camp site are the hot springs that are hidden to the left on the bottom of the very picturesque water fall.
The warm spring
To find the spring follow the opening of the lake where the waters overflow, cross the stream twice and then follow the path for a further 200 meters down a very steep hill. Some efforts were made to actually build natural bath tubs keeping the waters of the hot springs in natural ponds making a bathe possible. During our second visit only two of the ponds could be used as the other three looked rather uninviting, completely clogged with “disgusting” looking algae. It took us some time to get our overheated and very sweaty bodies used to the heat of the hot waters of this very hot natural spring. Once sitting comfortable one will only last a couple of minutes as the water is simply too hot. The overflowing waters of the lake offer a welcome cold plunge pool making you feel like newborn. Repeat this a few times and you will be completely rejuvenated, forgetting all the hard physical work from the passed 12 glorious hours.Often, in the early afternoon, fog and clouds make their way through the opening of the crater covering the entire area in a soft mist, then opening soon after in other areas continuously transforming the scenery, giving the entire landscape a rather Jurassic feel. Fish are plentiful in the lake, which are caught by the guides and then offered grilled to the hungry hiker. A bit boney, but then again when in Lombok, eat as the locals do.
Gunung Baruh
If you wish to climb the smoky new Gunung Baruh in the centered of the lake, then simply follow the lake eastward, which eventually will lead you up the final crater. A round trip will take you a slow 4 hours. On the foot of the new volcano you will reach hot springs heating a little bay. It is wonderful to swim there or stay over night. From this point it will take you about one hour to reach the top of this new and still growing smoking center volcano.
Lake Rinjani 2018m-Crater Rim, Blawangan satu 2615m
After leaving the campsite the track follows for a short, slow and bumpy 30 minutes along the lake, and eventually as the path leaves the lake with direction towards the rim, the track starts to gets steeper and the going gets slower and slower. Despite the hard work and slow going one is rewarded with spectacular views of the lake and the surrounding mountain. 
The warm raising early morning sun continuously transforms the scenery, making it a dramatic natural theater. After 2 to 2 ½ hours the rim of the volcano is reached making it absolute essential to stop for a long time and absorb the dramatic views of this volcanic wonderland. For the last time one can enjoy and take in the many terrific memories of the passed 48 hours. From the same vantage point one can see in the distance, across the ocean, covered in light blue mist Gunung Agung on Bali, and all the way around 2600 meter below the island coast of Lombok. This is the very same view that was featured on a former Indonesian 10’000 Rupiah bank note.
Crater Rim 2615m-Senaru 633m
For most hikers, once this point is reached, the hard work seems to be over, which is a severe misconception as it is still a very long walk downhill to Senaru. By now the over used hurting muscles are exhausted and are simply just not willing to absorb any more stress. For seasoned mountaineers it will take approximately 3 to 3 ½ hours to reach the village of Senaru, and for hikers that are suffering it can take 4 to 6 hours of painful descent. The first hour drops very steeply though high elevation grassland offering good grip, and at the same time glorious views of Gunung Agung in the far west, as well as the Ocean surrounding Lombok. By mid morning as the sun rises higher and higher, the air gradually gets warmer and warmer, eventually making every step hard work. If you’re lucky that by lunch time mist and light clouds cover the mountain, then this will bring a welcome relief from the burning midday sun. Once the first hour is behind you, at an altitude of around 1800 to 2000 meters the forest gradually takes over and larger trees offer welcome shade. The well-maintained track gradually loses on steepness and the going gets more comfortable and less strenuous. By now and at the end of the second hour, hiking becomes more mental then physical, as the body is tired and exhausted from the last 48 hours and every so often one starts to fantasize about a cool bath in a fresh mountain stream as well one or many large ice cold beers. However all this illusion is only a short hour or two away and when eventually the final destination was reached we sadly found out that the village of Senaru was out of power for the passed 12 hours, and that the only beer available was as warm as our overheated bodies.
Despite the hard physical endurance of the last three or four hours there are several resting points along the way that are between 1.2 km to 2.5 km apart from each other, and always inviting enough for a well deserved break, and a chit chat with other hikers that follow the path the other way around. The track leads through virgin forest across tens under growth offering solid ground and steps that lead from one root to another, ending eventually at the entrance gate of the national park. A short stop, a picture for the memory and the journey continue for a final 1.5 km through farming areas into the village of Senaru.
Senaru 650m
In Senaru it is compulsory to register back out at the national park office. This is absolutely essential as the authorities keep records of anyone entering the park and in case of emergencies or no show, will organize a search and rescue missions. The village offers some very simple eateries from which you should not expect too much of a culinary experience. Try to eat in one of the inexpensive home stays as they will gladly offer you a shower in ice-cold spring water which will rejuvenate your tired body, and at the same time prepare you for the slow journey back to Senggigi Beach, to the Gili Islands or flight from the airport.
Days after: Missing the mountain as well as the challenge
Here I sit days after another glorious climb to Rinjani, finishing the above text and selecting the photos, which hopefully will add a lot of colour to the story. While reading through the lines, incredible memories return of an absolute fabulous adventure, and thoughts keep crawling back of the day when we will decide to return to Lombok and once again be drowned in the beauty of this massive mountain. Rinjani was our first mountain that we climbed away from Bali, followed by 13 more mountain tops in Java that are all over 3000 meter.
They all have one fact in common and offer great adventures into very remot and isolated parts of Indonesia. Despite this fact there are only very few that we want go back to, for a second or third climb. Two of the most memorable ones in Java are Gunung Semeru for the fact that he is Indonesia’s third highest and that he is still very active and like an comfortable elderly Gentleman smoking a cigar, blowing ever 10 – 20 minutes a spectacular big puff. Then there is Gunung Merapi near Jogjakart, which is relatively easy to climb but offers magnificent volcanic views from the recent eruption in 2006.Rinjani definitely beats them all in every category, incredible beautiful, hard and challenging to climb, magnificent views, and something very majestic that one only can experience when actually attempting to reach the summit. What is really special and most memorable are the last 300 meters of the climb, when rising against the fast approaching sunrise, and mobilising the last strength in your body. Then the last ridge, and there you are, on top of the world on a very special planet, our beloved earth that desperately needs our support.
Gunung Rinjani, You are majestic and magnificent !
We will be back many more times!
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