The settingThe mountainous region around Kintamani, centering around the spectacular volcanic caldera of Mt. Batur with its deep crater lake and bubbling hot springs, is rugged with high and wild beauty. Clean crisp mountain air and stunning views in all directions, are what makes Kintamani one of the most visited tourist stops. Nearing Kintamani, the land rises steadily towards an almost featureless horizon – with only Gunung Agung and Gunung Abang in view to the east.
Suddenly, when you reach the ridge of the volcano rim which has a diameter of over 14 kilometers across, a completely unexpected overwhelming sight unveils in front of your eyes. Down in the crater sits the blackened cone of Gunung Batur, surrounded to the right by the long, blue waters of Lake Batur, and on the left the lava fields created by relatively resent volcanic eruptions, and very fertile vegetable plantations.The great size of the crater implies that Mt. Batur was once a much bigger mountain, perhaps as big as Gunung Agung which blew his top thousands of years ago.
The volcano is still active – the last serious eruptions occurred between 1965, 1974 and 1994. Erupting from the lower west flank of the mountain and leaving a vast field of black needle sharp lava rock that is now harvested by the tones as building material. As I write this story in January 2010 the western side of the volcano has been once again closed by the seismological Institute, in fear of further eruptions. Lake Batur, Bali’s largest lake feeds an underground network of springs throughout the southern-central flanks of the mountain.
The journeyTo fully understand the great magic of this exceptional scenic volcano, it is essential to witness a sunrise from the rim of the crater. To cover the 80 km from Nusa Dua or the roughly 70 km from Kuta will take you a good 2 hours easy driving by car. Simply find your way to the main road to the airport and then follow the signs towards Kintamani. This again is a wonderful trip and offers plenty of photo opportunities on the journey home. Once you reach the crater rim look for the turn off to Toyabunka where you find hot springs or even better a bed for the night which makes the hike to the summit the next morning a real walk in the park. Make your way to Pelayanan Pendakian where you find the office of the Batur guiding association, as well as your compulsory guide.
Compulsory GuideSeveral years ago the Gunung Batur guiding association was formed with the aim to escort visitors to the magic of this very spiritual mountain and at the same time to keep the treks well maintained and maintain the entire area perfectly clean. They actually do a fantastic job and most of them are really nice people. However there is one dark side which often tarnishes a great experience in a unpleasant way. The Prize. Unfortunately at the office there is no chart indicating the charges per person and as such everybody trays to charge you as much as possible which often leads to arguments or even “fights”. We recommend to pay per person Rp. 125‘000 (US$17.50, February 2010), which is a reasonable prize, and offers guides a fair income.
The way inStart your hike around 4.30 am as it will take a good 1 1/2 hours to reach the small Warung that is located on the southern lower rim of the volcano. The first 30 minutes of the hike leads passed vegetable plantations that are set within resent volcanic lava flows. The reach soil yields a good crop of tomatoes, corn, shallots , cabbage and a few more other vegetables. The going is easy, gradually inclining towards the actual cone. Especially on the way back this area offers terrific views in every direction.
The intermezzoThis first section will end at a small shrine where your guide often place a small offering asking the Gods for protection, forgiveness and a save journey. Now the relatively well maintained trek gets very quickly a lot steeper which in some areas is rocky and because of the small gravel rather slippery. Here a good pair of hiking boots will offer the essential grip. However most visitors are on their way with simple sports shoes. This next steeper section will take roughly 45 minutes to one hour leading crisscross up the flank of the volcano.
Just as your heartbeat starts to reach a higher frequency and your sweet starts to trip the Warung is reached that on most mornings is rather crowded and very busy.
A quick change of t-shirt and a warm jacket will give you the comfort to really enjoy a natural spectacle over the next 30 minutes. A quick simple breakfast of a noodle soup, a strong long Balinese coffee, or a cold drink will satisfy your empty belly. However due to the location prizes are on the rather high side.
The morning synphonyIf the weather Gods are on your side then the 30 minutes before and after sunrise are simply breathtaking with one of Indonesia’s most scenic surrounding as a back trop. The sun will rise to the east over the island of Lombok with Gunung Rinjani (3700 meters) towering over the island. Then to the south in the foreground Gunung Abang 2200 meter) with Bali’s holy volcano Gunung Agung (3041 meters) close behind.
Turning your back to the sun will face the southern and Western part of Bali with the 3000 meter high volcanoes of East Indonesia in the back ground.
Unfortunately often this portion of the volcano is covered in thick clouds making your hands in front of your nose barely visible.Most visitors witnessing the glorious sunrise from the Warung will eventually end their venture at this point and slowly descent the same way back which is a big mistake.Located on the lowest section of the volcano rim, consider the Warung as the actual start of this volcanic experience.
Follow the rim eastwards for an easy 300 meter before the path assents 250 altitude meters to the upper portion of the rim. This section is a 30 minute test of your stamina, as the trek is steep and in many areas rather slippery. Rewards in this section are countless as every meter seems to unveil better views of the immediate surrounding as well as the scenery in the distance.There is one more small Warung located close to the highest point of the rim. Here we often stop for a well deserved breakfast of eggs that are cooked in the steaming hot fumes escaping from the earths interior, or two packets of instant noodles and a compulsory Bali coffee. This has to be the perfect spot just to laze in the early morning sun and absorb the magic surrounding.
Along the crater rimThe next 500 meters of the trek is definitely the most exciting section as it follows along the edge of the crater rim. At times rather narrow and only 50 cm wide and in some areas very steep requiring your hands for additional support. As you reach the western end of the rim the path splits in two directions. Either you follow the rim which will lead you back down to the first Warung, or you part from the rim and descent sliding through the loose gravel steep towards the area where the most resent eruptions of Batur took place in 1994. As I write this story in February 2010 this section of the volcano has been closed by the seismological institute of Bandung, as all signs point towards a major outbreak in the very near future.
If however this area is open then do ask your friendly guide to take you into this area which is tremendously picturesque offering terrific views of a splendid volcanic landscape. This detour will take an additional 1 1/2 hours of comfortable hiking through extinct lava flows of passed eruptions. A definite must if the volcano permits.
Views in this section are simply stunning in every directions, and offer a new surprise around every corner. On one trip at the beginning of October we even come across Father Christmas and become part of a production for the German television. This is the only section where one needs to take extra care as there are some points where one could slip and fall a long way down into the crater. Stop often and enjoy the magic of a very special volcanic landscape.
The stroll homeIt will take you only a comfortable hour to get back to the starting point. However unlike on the way up in the dark by torch, it is by now between 8.30 to 9.00 am in hopefully bright sun allowing you to enjoy the spectacular beautiful surrounding. The first third steep down the cone of the volcano, followed by the second third across and passed extinct lava flows, and eventually through the lower section that is covered by pine forest and vegetable plantations. If you are not the fittest and most adventures person, but still wishes to experience the magic of a volcanic landscape, then Gunung Batur will reward you with a magnificent experience. Yes you only get a few hours sleep but then on the positive side by 10 am you will be safely and over joyed back from another great discovery.
The only draw back can be your guides, as it is often frustrating the way they tray to rip you off on arrival in the early morning. Even on the way, the last seven kilometer before you get to the meeting point, people will stop your transport and offering there services at outrageous ridiculous prizes. Take our prize recommendations which offers a fair deal for both parties. Once the deal is done, then the foundation is set for a morning which will stay in your memory for a long time.
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