Gunung Agung 2866 Crater Rim
Is without question one of the hardest volcanoes to climb in the whole of Indonesia. It is not the time it takes which can be between 8-12 hours depending on the rout, put the fact that both paths lead straight up to the summit. If one thinks it is hard to go up then the coming down is simply brutal. 
Countless times we have come across adventures which struggled to the top, but then where in tears on the way back. There are two routes to reach the crater rim which leaf from different places. If you aim to reach the highest point of Gunung Agung then one needs to depart from Pura Baskhi, Bali’s most secret temple. However if you are happy to reach the rim which is short of about 150 meters from the very top, then start hiking from Pura Pasar Agung which is Bali’s highest elevated temple. 
Views from both sides are just spectacular.As with any other tall volcano in Indonesia do not attempt to climb Gunung Agung without a guide, which is compulsory. Despite the fact that there is only one way up, the path becomes almost invisible once the weather changes, which often happens within minutes. Unfortunately many enthusiastic hikers have lost there lives completely unnecessary, just because they wanted to safe a few Rupiahs. There are always guides waiting at the car park of Pura Pasar Agung or at Pura Besaki the mother temple. Cost per person is between US$25 – US$30. Guides will not only carry your bags but are also a terrific source of information about anything local. If you pay a little more then your leader will cook you a terrific breakfast on the summit. Banana sandwiches, hard boiled eggs, toast or even a generous helping of rice. Not forgetting a piping hot Balinese coffee.
Short Rout from Pura Pasar Agung 1575 m
The hiking adventure starts at the car park with a welcoming or heart breaking 297 steps to, or from the temple, and by the time you reach step 200 your heart beat will be up in similar territories. Then again we have seen this at many occasions that these steps become absolute torture for unconditioned hikers on there return journey.At the gates of the temple, guides will make a offering to the Gods, to ask for forgiveness, protection and a save return from this sacred mountain. It would be terrific if you also show your respect and light up a few incants, place them on on one of the shrines and say your own short prayer as a sign of respect to God, to the people and culture of Bali.
The forest
The path first leads to the left around the temple, passed a couple water reservoirs tanks, from where you have beautiful views of the temple. Then across a small opening in the woods and then immediately enters very steep and tens high alpine rainforest. Instantly the going gets tough up a seemingly endless steep ascent.
The track climbs steeply up a narrow path that is carved by deep ravines and littered by countless roots from magnificent tall trees often requiring hands and feet to scramble over. If you depart at 2.30 am for a sunrise at the summit then a good torch light is absolute essential to illuminate the path. Most practical is a headlight allowing you to keep your hands free. After a good hour the forest gets gradually lighter and less tens and eventually the path passes a small concrete dam which channels rainwater from the higher mountain region into PVC pipes back to the reservoirs just above Pura Pasar Agung. For me this normally marks the first third of the track. Here the path flattens for a couple meters and offers good views on the return journey. Often we break here for a couple minutes for a sip from the water bottle and a bit to eat.
The transition 1951 m
After a short flatter passage across a small ridge the path now inclines again rather steep, put this time up the first rocky surfaces. Here the forest is not as tens anymore and with every meter altitude gained offers increasingly better views of Bali fare below.
At times this section can be slippery, especially after resent rainfalls. There are several short and steep drops requiring your hands for additional hold and safety, but definitely nothing to worry about. This next section will take about 1 hour of continues hard steep hiking ending once the vegetation gives way to pure volcanic rock surface. If you depart Pura Pasar Agung around 4 am, by now the horizon will be lit up by early morning light, making the remaining route clearly visible. At this point we take a short 10 minute break enjoying some refreshments, a drink, and foremost the stunning surrounding.
The rocks 2425 m
The remainder of the journey is simply pure joy. Yes it is steep, very steep, often requiring the support of the hands, but with a little care taken there is not much danger in getting to the top of the rim. At this stage it is crucial to be lead by your local guide as there is no more clearly visible path ahead. The only singes of the track are countless graffiti’s painted by local mountaineers over the years. If you are on the way up, and should for some unexplained reasons you get separated from your guides then simply follow these markings up to the top. However on the way down those markings are rather difficult to see and should you be unlucky to experience a weather change with thick mist and fog, then you are in deep trouble.
A serious word of caution
Stay where you are, put on warm cloth as well as your heavy duty rain coat and wait. I always carry a whistle that can be heard a long way away. As well as a fully charged hand phone. Do not attempt to continue your walk downhill in thick mist without guide, as there is a definite guaranty that you will get lost which will bring you unnecessary into a life threatening situation. Hopefully warm cloth and the raincoat will safe you from the environment as well as a tragic disaster. You can be certain that your guides, which are responsible for your safety will mobilize absolutely everything to rescue you from this very rugged mountain. 
We can not emphasize enough on the importance of your Balinese guides which have climbed this serious tall mountain countless times, and know each and every rock. Neglecting this few basics can have fatal results.Once these points of concerns are taken into consideration one should enjoy the final third of the track to it’s fullest.
Yes it is steep, very steep, rocky and at times very slow going and often slippery, but what a small prize to pay for the dramatic scenery unfolding in every direction. 2/3 of Bali including the coast line as well as the neighboring islands of Lombok, Nusa Lemongan, Nusa Penida and Nusa Dua fare below you. Then to the West the entire mountain ranges of Bali including the towering volcanoes of East Java in the misty distance. Finally ahead of you a rugged mountaintop with the the peak of Gunung Agung high above to the left, which is separated by a deep impossible to pass volcanic ravine.
The Summit
The last third will take a good 1 to 1 1/2 hours of very hard work, and concentrated high altitude climbing. By now you are well over 2500 meter over sea level and because of the relative thin air every step takes some extra effort. With every step higher, the crater rim gets closer and the anticipation increases. Give yourself plenty of time, do not rush and take one step after the other, stop frequently and enjoy the scenery. This section is very steep and often requires your hands for additional safety. 
Check every step twice to ensure that you have proper hold and with it you will not run the risk to fall which obviously could result in rather bad injuries.The final 75 meters are not as steep and the going gets suddenly easier which increases the personal satisfaction. Before you really know what happened the rim and with it the final destination is reached and as a result the view is simply breath taking. Volcanic scenery at it’s best. Here your guides will make offerings and prayers to the Gods and thank them for protecting everyone on there journey as well as for the joy received by reaching the top. Join them and light an uneven number of incants, 1-3-5-etc.place them on the edge of the crater and thank God for his protection.
Next is time for breakfast which will be prepared by your guides and includes a piping hot coffee, hard boiled eggs, a delicious banana sandwich and some overly sweet biscuits. There is no better place on planet earth then enjoying a rejuvenating hearty meal then on the crater rim of Bali’s holly mountain with an view that only very few people get to enjoy.
The journey home
Eventually the decision has to be made to say by by to the magic volcanic scenery and start the long, hard and strenuous journey back towards Pasar Agung. A journey that will take as long as it takes to get up, with the difference that with every step downhill the pressure on your upper legs gets harder and harder and eventually almost unbearable. 
Unless you are a seasoned mountaineer or very fit then the last third often becomes an endless journey of pain and agony. Countless times have we overtaken totally exhausted hikers actually walking down the wrong way. Backwards seems to be rather weird, however it takes a lot of the pressure of the upper tights, which at least allows you to get centimeter by centimeter closer towards the final 297 steps. Finally after a seemingly never ending, painful slow struggle downwards the long awaited temple comes into sight and with it an end of yet another memorable journey.
Chickens can be heard and there are dogs barking which give you the final strength to conquer the last few meters. The water tanks are reached which often reward one with an incredible sights of one of Bali’s highest elevated temples. During the early afternoon hours light clouds frequently cover the temple into a soft mist which gives the whole area a very mystical mood. The path leads to the right around the parameter of the temple slowly descending to the entrance of the temple.
Verdict
Over the years we have climbed this route dozens of times and every time when returning guides and locals alike would ask us why we continue to return to the mountain over and over again? Why? Because the mountain has something very special to offer, which are not only the views but the spiritual magic it offers. There is something very unique about the mountain which one can only experience when actually climbing this very demanding route.
Summary Gunung Agung 2866
Elevation: 2866 meters, crater rim
Coordinates:
Summit: -8.340807,115.503302
Bali Airport Kuta: -8.743512,115.166416
Klungkung: -8.535348,115.403738
Rendang, turn off from main road: -8.428564,115.418501
Tukad Sangsang, turn off to Pasar Agung: -8.436121,115.474634
Pura Pasar Agung: -8.369382,115.50313
Location: North East Bali, 80 km from Bali International Airport.
Difficult Grade V3: The trail is steep, and in the forested section (1/3) spiked with several root passages. Hold on to what ever you can, tree stumps, bushes and you will be very safe. The second third of the trek continues steep straight up but offers good hold. The last 400 meters altitude is on volcanic rock, often slippery, especially on the way down. There are several tricky sections that require special attention and hands for additional safety.
Physical Challenge V3: Countless times we come across hikers, which completely underestimated the challenge of this great volcano, and totally broke in on the way down. Definitely not recommended to anyone, which is not in very good physical condition. The trail is steep and challenging. The return journey will take just as long as the climb and will seriously challenge your upper legs and the knees.
Hiking time: 8 hours for the round trip
Water source: None. 3-4 liters recommended
Guide: Essential. Available at the care park below the temple, there is always someone there to assist you.
Permit: Not required, however guide is.
Transport: Airport Kuta-Sanur-Klungkung-Rendang-Selat -Pura Pasar Agung. Bali’s highest elevated temple complex. It is the easiest to travel by rented motorbike or car.
Accommodation: Available in Selat and Sibetan
Direction to Gunung Agung
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